Tour of Israel

Israel played a big part in my partner’s life. Eight years to be precise. In 1990 he found and resided at Kibbutz Kfar Hahoresh, a place he now regards as his second home.

We decided to visit his old stomping ground this summer, merging a three-day kibbutz reunion with six days exploring Israel by car. Destinations sourced, security risks scanned, off we jetted to the Promised Land.

1 – Religious heart

There’s so much history written in the Israeli soil, it’s difficult to visit without escaping its all-consuming religious past. Despite my non-religious upbringing I was still moved by the biblical undercurrent that commands the land. In Jerusalem, through the eyes of others, I felt the delight and fulfilment that religion brings.

2 – Young army

In Israel, it’s still mandatory for adolescents to complete two years National Service. As such, at the age of 18, young boys and girls flee-the-nest to spend time serving their country. Their presence patrolling the streets, on public transport and in the shops is unavoidable. Whilst there’s a degree of reassurance to see so many uniformed personnel in public areas, their  innocent young faces coupled with visible weaponry was a little unnerving.

3 – Natural beauty

The landscape that defines Israel is naturally beautiful. Contrary to what I imagined, it’s largely untouched. It boasts mountains, greenery, water expanses and golden dunes, and shores-up to the Mediterranean, Dead and Red seas. We spent five of the ten days driving through Israel and were taken-aback by the country’s delightful panorama.

4 – Middle-eastern cuisine

It has to be said, Middle-eastern cuisine really talks my language. It’s where the once humble chickpea was transformed into the almighty falafel. Accompanied with pickled veg, olive oil, hummus and tahini, it’s without doubt my food of worship!

It’s not just about falafel though, it’s about spices, colour, aroma and taste. The vibrant Shakshuka that Noga makes to perfection, the grilled halumi, olives, salads, pitta and zhoug all invigorate the palette with fire and zest. The sweet pastries to finish with and halva that melts deliciously with Arabic coffee are equally as scrummy. Israeli food gets my vote and would be my top-choice fare for a last supper!

Kibbutz Kfar Hahoresh

Our first destination, after being starstruck in Tel Aviv airport by the almighty Jimmy Carr, was Kibbutz Kfar Hahoresh.

As mentioned, this 31-acre elevated community just outside Nazareth was home to my significant other for more than half of his 20s. The kibbutz was formed in the 1930s and operates around its on-site industrial bakery. The place where thousands of volunteers from around the globe worked to earn their digs over the decades.

People of the Kibbutz are salt-of-the-earth and despite being in unfamiliar territory, I was made to feel welcome in an instant. Ruud and Noga, who are lifelong friends, hosted our three days at Kfar Hahoresh. Noga, a kibbutz-born local, is a fountain of knowledge. She spent hours one evening talking me through the history of Israel; culture, politics and religion. With Nazareth glistening by night in the distance and my discovery senses on full alert, I began to feel as though I was truly starting to understand Israel. (Overall Rating 90/100)

Haifa

Our first jaunt out of the Kibbutz was a day-trip to Haifa. Haifa is a vibrant, cosmopolitan, coastal city situated in north-west Israel. Built on the slopes of Mount Carmel, you’ll need a healthy pair of lungs and sturdy walking shoes to climb to the highest point, approx 525m.

Haifa is the home of the beautiful Bahai Gardens, a holy place of worship for the Bahai faith and a stunning feature that spans the city. Beginning at its base, the gardens extend almost 1km up the side of Mount Carmel, covering some 200,000sqm of land. The gardens are linked by a set of steps flanked by twin streams of running water cascading down the mountainside.

The luscious green gardens imitate a palatial staircase in an open air fortress and are very well tended. Most of the gardens were closed when we visited so it was only by climbing a zig-zag route via adjacent streets were we able reach the peak. The view from the top, gazing down the Bahai Gardens then resting at the coastline, was breathtaking. There’s a relatively cheap cable car option, but we decided to forfeit a few buckets of sweat to climb there instead! Whilst we were up in the city heights, we grabbed a bite to eat at one of the best falafel places in Haifa – Falafel President. It’s a shame we can’t get falafel like this where we are in the UK! (Overall Rating 90/100)

Sea of Galilee

Our second outing took us north-east to the Sea of Galilee. For anyone unfamiliar, the lake is a biblical site where Jesus is said to have walked on water AND fed five thousand people. I couldn’t wait to find out if this place was as magical as the book suggests.

Sadly, I didn’t feel it. Whilst undoubtedly the Sea of Galilee is a picturesque location, the promenade was tired and unfinished. The usual cheap market stalls, haphazard shop fronts and ammonia-fragranced public toilets detract from the potential of this place.

The soaring temperatures of 38+ degrees and warm stagnant air didn’t help. The freshwater lake is recorded as the lowest on Earth so there’s no wonder that even on land we felt the need to come up for air. And that we did. Situated a short ten minute drive away is Mount Arbel, a stunning National Park and Nature Reserve serving as the ideal viewing platform. We spent a few hours trailing the reserve, stopping off occasionally to pose as Angels of the North-Israel. If only we’d found this idyllic location first!

Perhaps the chronic heat prevented us from giving the Sea of Galilee a fair review, but I’m pretty certain the short visit gave us the snapshot we needed to rate this as our least favourite Israeli destination. (Overall Rating 88/100)

Nazareth

Within walking distance from the Kibbutz (just) and being birthplace to Mary, seeing this little gem was always on the cards. We spent half a day meandering the streets that once heard the footsteps of a young Mary, Joseph and Jesus.

Nazareth‘s skyline comprises a range of architectures from different cultures. From mosques and churches to museums and shanty-homes. Each complementing the next, there’s a real sense that uniting difference can bring harmony. Predominantly home to Arab citizens, 70 per cent of whom are Muslim and 30 per cent Christian, as well as Jews, this place oozes the physical presence of faith and belief.

We visited the Basilica of Annunciation, a landmark Catholic church positioned on the site rumoured to have been Mary’s home. From the outside, this building is domineering and strong, resembling a fort. On the inside it’s heavenly and soothing. A building of two halves. Located centre-stage of this famous church is the ‘grotto’ otherwise known as the site of annunciation. The soil that lies here marks the very spot where the Angel Gabriel visited Mary to tell her she’d bear the son of god. It was compelling to see, if not through my own eyes, then the eyes of others. For the pilgrims stood around us, a visit to this site brings comfort and it’s difficult to deny or begrudge anyone that.

The sweet, smoky smells of Nazareth along with the chimes of religious sounds all add to the wonder. The sight of glistening-gold rooftops interspersed with greenery and mish-mash religious architecture makes this place magical. It was a humbling experience to visit Nazareth and one I’d readily to repeat. (Overall Rating 91/100)

Tel Aviv including Jaffa

In stark contrast to our first three days, we set upon the trendy city of Tel Aviv to soak up some fast-paced municipal vibes.

Firstly, Tel Aviv is nothing like the photos show. In fact, I’ve yet to see a picture that does Tel Aviv justice. Secondly, I’m nowhere near cool enough to give Tel Aviv the hype it deserves. I just hope having someone like me as a fan doesn’t detract from its groove!

As we drove through Tel Aviv one rush hour evening via the tree-lined residential area to the coastline, we inhaled the hustle and bustle of what’s just a normal working day here. Tel Aviv is young, vibrant and quirky, in more ways than one. The outlook here is one of acceptance and the motto, live and let live, is in abundance. Known as one of the gay capitals of the world, we had the privilege of gatecrashing a pride event during our stay. With so much love in the air and coming together of people, there’s a lot to learn from this city.

Another Tel Avivian delight is its stunning coastline. It stretches from the industrial north side right down to Jaffa, a historic area at the south of the city. Walking along the golden sandy coastline became our morning ritual, stopping off for a spot of brunch and a bit of people-watching.

Jaffa is an ancient port built on a cliff edge and presents a postcard-perfect photo op. It exudes the ‘well kempt’ neatness you’d expect to see at Buckingham Palace. We wandered through the quaint Jaffa streets to the traditional market area and climbed the wide steps to St Peter’s Bell Tower where we spent a short while taking in the views.

We walked miles exploring Tel Aviv during our three day stay. Taking in the traditional and new markets, impressive architecture and quirky streets. When sunset arrives, the super-buffed youths flock to the beach to see the day out playing a bit of volley ball and hooking up with their pals. Their energy created a buzzing atmosphere along the coastline and it was a pleasure watching them do their thing to the backdrop of a beautiful sunset.

Our final evening in Tel Aviv was spent in Fortuna Del Mar, a swanky bar and restaurant in the Marina. We spent hours at this watering hole knocking back the cocktails and losing ourselves in the open air music.

The duration of our city stay was at Carlton Tel Aviv Hotel on the seafront. With a rooftop pool, luxurious communal areas and first-class restaurants, it’s a hotel I’d definitely return to. Paying a little extra for a sea view is well worth the money. (Overall Rating 93/100)

Jerusalem

No trip to Israel is complete without seeing Jerusalem. It may be a troubled city and the media reporting may be alarming, but I just HAD to see it!

After a 45 minute bus ride from Tel Aviv, we landed in north-west Jerusalem. Then we took a 30 minute stroll down Jaffa Road into the Jewish quarter. Lined with shops and restaurants the entire stretch of Jaffa Road was pretty cool. It serves as one of the main arteries into the city, and is entirely pedestrianised, except for the regular trams that pass through!

The Western Wall was our first calling point. Security is pretty tight to get in (as you’d imagine) so we had to queue for a short while in the blazing heat. An inconvenience that completely pays off once you’re inside. As we walked through the dark entrance we were hit with by the huge expanse of openness. The four walls that surround the site don’t create a feeling of being hemmed in. Quite the opposite in fact. I took a few minutes to compose myself, before soaking up the magnificence of what I was seeing. The sight of the famous Western Wall triggered a melting pot of emotions. Witnessing a site that has caused so much dispute and hurt, yet love and compassion over thousands of years was surreal. I’ve seen images of the Western Wall in films and on TV, but nothing prepares you for the real thing.

The worshippers were equally as compelling to watch. Predominantly Jewish men, fussing around as they do, it was a pleasure to see the delight in their eyes. Although all visitors can pray, men and women must do so separately and each are directed to their respective section of the wall. Because of the divide, we decided not to pray but chose to watch others instead. My lasting memory was a father and son interaction as the father was teaching his teenage son what to do. Starting at the water fountain, washing their hands before taking to the wall to insert their written prayer into the crumbling mortar. Quite blissful.

We probably spent two hours venturing to different parts of the Western Wall before crossing the dividing line via a wooden bridge to see the Dome of the Rock. The colourful, golden-topped dome was impressive. Its octagonal exterior boasts blue mosaic tiles, setting it apart from typical mosques. As non-muslims, we weren’t allowed inside the building which was a real shame. The land that lies beneath this unique structure is said to be the place where God created Adam.

Our final stopping point, after getting lost in the maze that is the old market within the Western Walls, was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Another major pilgrimage site, this Church is said to be both the place of the crucifixion and the tomb of Jesus.

I was blown away with Jerusalem for so many reasons. Although it didn’t capture my faith, it increased my appreciation of it. (Overall Rating 94/100)

The Dead Sea

Our final three days were spent in central-east Israel at Neve Zohar. A largely untouched mountainous region overlooking the Dead Sea. The drive there alone was medicinal, with rugged, strata-lined rocks surrounding the intensely turquoise sea to form a stunning landscape. We free-wheeled down the snaky mountain road at a steady pace, stopping off a couple of times to take in the wilderness.

Officially the lowest place on earth, the Dead Sea sits at an impressive 430m below sea level. The heat and humidity is so intense it takes your breath away, and prevents any opportunity to over-exert. The salt-rich lake, surrounded by desert beaches, mineral spas and oases, offers the perfect retreat for anyone wanting to hibernate and replenish. Where do I sign?

We stayed in Herods Hotel, five-star accommodation with first-class facilities overlooking the almighty lake. From the moment we arrived, we knew it would be the ultimate place to unwind and within minutes of dumping our bags in the room, we were pacing towards the salty water. The first thing that caught my attention after dipping my toe in the Dead Sea was its temperature. It was unexpectedly warm and inviting. The second surprise was how oily the water felt. Of course it wasn’t oil, but high salt levels, around 30 percent, that create an oil-like consistency.

I couldn’t resist the urge to experience floating any longer, so with that I strode on in. The buoyancy, due to high levels of salt, takes some getting used to and I quickly learnt that defying floating was impossible. I laid in (or should I say on) the water for a good while, taking in the therapeutic facets this alleged, miracle water has to offer. With the barren Jordanian mountains domineering across the lake, I daydreamed about what this place might have been like to live in centuries ago. Heavenly I imagine.

We lounged in the Dead Sea a further four times during our stay, and on one occasion I succumbed to the ritual of being doused in mud. The unique water and mud combination contains minerals which are rumoured to contain healing properties. If it’s good enough for Cleopatra, it’s good enough for me!

I should wrap-up our Dead Sea experience by noting that although we were in a luxurious hotel with excellent facilities and perfectly located, the hotel staff were extremely rude and service at Herods was very poor. Quite possibly the worst I’ve ever experienced. (Overall Rating 94/100)

Masada

Our penultimate day in the Promised Land was one of exhaustion, amazement and achievement.

Waking at 4.15am is never easy, especially when the unwelcome sound of the alarm serves as a reminder of the mountain you’re about to climb! But, rumour has it there’s only one time of day to climb Masada, and that’s just before sunrise.

Standing an impressive 450m tall, Mount Masada is famous for its eye-watering history. The top of this magnificent rock was carved into an ancient fortress by Herod the Great in 31BC. The remains of his palatial home and civilian dwellings are still recognisable today. As story has it, a 950-strong Jewish community occupying the top of Masada in 72AD came to a brutal and cruel end as they committed mass suicide through fear of being captured by the Romans.

We arrived at the snake path entry point in good time, approx 5am. But had to wait 30 frustrating minutes in a long queue to get in. Once through the gates, having lost half-an-hour of our allocated climb time, we had to up the tempo. We endured a rushed and frantic climb to the top in order to reach the summit before sunrise. What normally takes approx one hour to climb, we managed to do in 40 minutes. It was HARD!

But my goodness it was worth every bead of sweat and every single step. We settled ourselves on a cliff-edge platform overlooking the eastern prospect with about two minutes to spare until sunrise. The feeling as we watched the golden ball emerge from the horizon was euphoric. The sun, wrapped in a bronzed blanket, emitted a warming hue across the landscape kissing our skin as it gained height. The silence on the mountain top was comforting. Particularly so given we were one of around a hundred climbers all witnessing the dawn of a new day in this beautiful location. We felt as though we were on top of the world.

After a short time imprinting this event onto our forever memories, we partook in the obligatory selfie shoot before trotting off to explore what else this mountain had to offer.

It was epic. The facilities and opulence this ancient neighbourhood had crafted out, not to mention Herod’s palace, were remarkable. We spent a couple of hours soaking up the history before starting our descent, which took around 15-20 minutes.

I can’t recommend climbing Masada highly enough to anyone who is fit and able to make it to the top. For those less able there’s a cable car option, but unfortunately it doesn’t get passengers to the top until after sunrise. The sense of achievement and utmost appreciation for this spectacular site, which bears the most devastating of stories, is perhaps my highlight of the trip. A must do.

I’ve had to discount a few points from my rating due to the completely unnecessary queue on arrival. We were fit enough (or crazy enough) to push our absolute limits in order to reach the summit in time for sunrise. A feat that others less able would not have been able to accomplish. (Overall Rating 96/100)

Israeli people

Israeli people are loyal, friendly and proud. Whilst they may come across as stern initially, this cooler exterior is in no way a reflection of what’s inside. The term Sabra, meaning a Jew born in Israel, is also the word used for a cactus. Similar to the prickly pear, once you get past the protective outer layer, Israeli’s are full of goodness.

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Date of visit: 8 August 2018 to 17 August 2018