Helengeli, Maldives

The Maldives, a formation of 1,200 unique islands, was born 60 million years ago following a volcanic eruption in the Indian Ocean. It had been on my peripheral places-to-visit radar for a couple of decades, but I’d never found myself in the right set of circumstances to go. My partner, on the other hand, had visited the Maldives six years earlier and it was from hearing about his fond recollections that I started searching for an island for us to visit together.

After a few days’ holiday-hunting, our first trip to this paradisal drop in the Indian Ocean was booked. We decided on Helengeli, a stunning island in the Northern Atoll, mainly because it has a coral reef.

1 – Daily routines

The similarity of one day to the next became apparent not long after arriving. For anyone who thrives on having daily routines you can set your watch to, this part of the world is perfect. Largely due to its close proximity to the equator, sunrises and sunsets are approximately 12 hours apart and happen at almost the same time of day, all year round. The temperature is also impressively consistent, ranging from just 28 to 30 degrees day and night at any time of year.

But it’s not just the cosmological happenings that bring such regularity. Having very little to do each day also takes some getting used to. Once you’re on the island, that’s it. Life without chaos, demands and pressure brings an obvious void. So to fill that gap it’s easy to get caught up in the little things like clock-watching, menu-scanning and noticing the natural routines of the island.

On our fourth day we decided to wake early to watch a sunrise. We weren’t the only guests opting for an early start. In dribs and drabs, other residents were up and about, also wanting to watch the new day emerge. An incredibly sweet couple, probably in their mid-sixties, were performing a yoga routine by the sea. The sun rose at 6:10am and they continued for a further 30 minutes. Such an impressive way to see in the day.

2 – The night sky

Once the sun sets at around 6pm each day, the brightness of day transforms rapidly into the darkness of night. With zero light pollution in this part of the world, the familiar bright hue that illuminates Europe’s night sky is nowhere to be seen. Instead, jet-black skies make up the outer atmosphere and complete darkness takes over. The clarity of the Milky Way makes it seem unfamiliar.

We took advantage of the dark skies and our 3° north location by taking some long-exposure photographs of the stars and planets above. We also spent many-an-evening lying outdoors on bean-bags under the jewelled ceiling, fixated by the galaxies above our eyes.

3 – The world beneath the water

The house reef (coral surrounding the island) was one of the features that attracted us to Helengeli. But nothing prepared us for the magnificence this coral-life underwater had to offer. It was breathtaking – literally and metaphorically!

As a self-confessed wannabe mermaid it was a given that much of my time would be spent submerged in the Indian Ocean. We bought Ninja snorkel masks especially for this trip and were mightily impressed with the enhanced snorkelling experience they provided. Every day we found ourselves immersed among the sea life, lapping up the multi-tonal throes of blue across the ocean floor for hours at a time.

The variety of fish and other aquatic life across the reef were vast. From turtles and sharks, to nemos and dorys, then everything in between. Be it the neon colour of the beautiful finned creatures, the size of the sharks that swim right by you, or the synchronised schools of fish dancing as they tootle on by – what lies beneath is truly another world.

4 – Sympathetic construction

My final observation is one of appreciation also. What seems to define construction on Maldivian Islands is a desire to retain as much nature as possible. As such, trees and natural wildlife habitats continue to dominate the land, leaving minimal opportunity for destruction and development. Structures such as villas, restaurants and jetties are predominantly built of wood and interspersed subtly among the trees. I hope the Maldivian government retain this tight building control and don’t succumb to financial offers from wealthy tycoon developers. The region’s unique beauty must be preserved.

Resort: Helengeli Island

Helengeli island resort is fronted by ‘OBLU’, a vibrant brand created by Maldivian resort giants, ‘Atmosphere’. The brand brings a colourful, lively and modern façade to this stunning island.

The island comprises 116 villas, two restaurants, a boathouse, ELENA spa, PADI water-sports centre and small gift shop.

The north side of the island is cordoned off and allocated to Helengeli’s staff who likely spend their out-of-work hours residing there. We weren’t able to enter this part of the island, though I imagine it’s tightly-packed and lacks the luxuries paying guests are privy to.

The south side is more communal and hosts the boathouse reception, spa and diving centre. The two eateries, All Spice and Just Grill, are positioned centrally – just a stone’s throw from where our villa was located.

To promote the restaurant and on-site entertainment, OBLU prepare a weekly itinerary. Themed foods dominate the menu and a low-key singer fills the bar area with complementary background music. The itinerary also includes activities such as boat excursions which we took advantage of. You can read more about these below.

The watersports centre is a perfect fit for the island, ideal for those wanting to make the most of the water-world. The PADI-accredited centre offers scuba, snorkelling and much more. We didn’t partake but would have considered scuba if we’d been staying longer.

Finally, I should mention the exceptional service we received throughout our stay at OBLU. It was outstanding. From Maitre d’ right through to the housemaid, who came at least twice a day and created masterpieces with our towels. All their efforts were second-to-none and hugely appreciated. (Overall Rating 95/100)

Speedboat to the Island

We were helped onto the speedboat by a trio of friendly resort personnel who were clearly of the mindset that creating a good first impression leaves a lasting one. As such, we were well looked after during our one-hour boat ride to the Island. Chilled hand-towels, bottles of iced water and mini Snickers bars were handed out in abundance. Not to mention the onboard, comedic entertainment by the youthful crew. The notion of what our next ten days might look like, started to seep in.

Arrival

As our boat docked-in to Helengeli’s boathouse, we were escorted to reception by even more attentive staff for a chilled fruit juice welcome drink. Once the check-in process was complete, another ever-helpful guide walked us along the sandy path to our villa. I kicked my trainers off upon leaving reception and my feet didn’t see full-covered footwear again until we left.

First exploration

Like intrepid explorers, on day one we were aching to set foot into the wilderness and explore this delightful island. Starting from our villa, positioned half-way across the island, we walked left towards the north side and then back on ourselves towards the south. It took us all of ten minutes to walk the full stretch!. We settled in the knowledge that whatever happens on Helengeli island, getting lost wouldn’t be one of them. With such a tiny piece of land at our feet we also contemplated the likelihood of not having enough to do or feeling claustrophobic. Thankfully these thoughts didn’t occur again for the rest of our stay.

Maintaining the island was a key focus for the Helengeli team. On our short walk we spotted the maintenance team in full flow. One was raking the sand and the other climbed a palm tree, barefoot, to chop down a dead leaf.

Accommodation

We paid a little extra for our accommodation and opted for a deluxe beach villa facing the north-western aspect. This was to ensure we had the perfect spot for watching the sunsets.

Exactly as illustrated in the travel brochure, our villa had the optimal balance of luxury vs simplicity. Whilst respecting its tropical surroundings, the villa retained a natural feel with just splashes of modern day luxuries and top-quality fittings throughout.

The open air bathroom was even more delightful than we imagined. With echoing sounds from the tropical birds in the trees above and an open-air shower, lined with luscious plants – it was the ultimate place to unwind and cleanse.

On the doorstep was our private beach. It wasn’t completely private as other residents are able to walk along the coast, but the few metres from our patio doors to the water edge felt very private indeed.

Our villa, 205, was the best on the island in my opinion, simply because of its location. (Overall Rating 94/100)

Island Restaurants

Unlimited food and drink at the ‘All Spice’ restaurant is part of the all-inclusive package and it was delicious, morning, noon and night. Unlike most all-inclusive buffets, the food quality and variety here was impeccable. Each buffet station boasted fresh, tasty ingredients which were laid out like works of art. On the Maldivian themed evening I sampled a local specialty, breadfruit curry. It was utterly delightful and I’ve tried to locate this unique ingredient since returning home, without success unfortunately.

Cooked breakfasts were prepared by chef-manned station points as-you-wait. Other breakfast options included fresh fruits as well as traditional cereals and cold, continental foods. We ate on the veranda every morning, watching the sharks and other sea creatures swim by.

Although the All Spice restaurant was spectacular, one evening we decided to eat in Just Grill – the island’s second restaurant which is not part of the all-inclusive deal. Situated on a secluded section of the beach, our intimate dining table was surrounded by a candles laid out in a heart shape. We dined beneath the stars, with sand under our feet. I ate a delicious, succulent lobster dish which was prepared and cooked to perfection. The meal cost around £150, so very reasonably priced for an exclusive dining experience. (Overall Rating 95/100)

On-site Spa

We spent our fifth day taking advantage of the on-site Spa. A hidden island retreat offering even more extravagance to our tropical getaway.

We were greeted with a warm welcome, followed by an even warmer surprise – in the form of ginger tea served in traditional teapots. In the zen-inspired outdoors area, we sipped our spicy tea whilst relaxing amid running water streams and greenery.

We both opted for a full back massage and felt pampered and replenished after our visit. (Overall Rating 92/100)

Sunset fishing trip

On day six we took advantage of the Sunset fishing trip. Facilitated by the same trio that collected us from Male, we knew we could count on this merry bunch to add life to the trip.

We set sail on a classic, old-school fishing boat about 30 minutes before sunset. The crew retrieved boxes of rotting meat from the hold and we placed them on the end of our fishing lines. Although a perfect delicacy for unwitting little fishies, the bait created an extremely unpleasant stench for us!

I decided not to partake in the ‘fishing’ element of the trip. Craig on the other hand, relished in the idea and not long after his line was cast into the ocean he felt a tugging sensation. Alas, it wasn’t a fish. In fact his efforts and patience didn’t pay off and much to his disappointment, he came home without a catch! It was a pleasant and different way to watch the sunset. (Overall Rating 87/100)

Boat trip to Gaarfaru

Our seventh day took us 11 km north to another Maldivian island, Gaarfaru.

Our trip to this nearby residential island offered the chance to see local Maldivian folk going about their daily business. Just a 45 min boat-ride from Helengeli, this intriguing island was full of culture. Home to 1,400 residents and with its own school, police station, civic buildings, shops, homes and even a boat repair yard, this island is entirely self-sufficient. We saw children running through the narrow streets, amazed by us and our fascination with them. It was an insightful trip and one of the highlights of our stay. (Overall Rating 92/100)

Wine-sampling evening

The management team invited us to attend an exclusive dinner one evening alongside a handful of other guests, courtesy of a top wine merchant. In a bid to secure a wine contract at Helengeli, the Sommelier-cum-Sales Director opened the event with a flamboyant introduction about the wine company he was representing. The Chilean producer, big in south America, was on a mission to penetrate the East-Asian market. We ate a four-course meal in the company of a great bunch of fellow Europeans, paired with some spectacular wines accompanying each dish. It was an enlightening experience and good fun. (Overall Rating 93/100)

Malé Airport

On arriving at Malé International Airport, two flights and 16 hours after leaving the UK, we were greeted with a tropical welcome. Unlike modern airports, Malé reminded me of a scene from a 60s James Bond movie. With ceiling fans offering the best in air ventilation and a propped-up lean-to as the building’s main entry and exit point, you could be forgiven for thinking you’d entered a different era. A mere stride out of the airport and we were right on the ocean-front.

Date of visit: 2 August 2016 to 12 August 2016