Author: cd515

Intro

Our second trip to the Maldives was to mark a special half-century occasion! And what better way to do it than asking nine of Craig’s nearest and dearest to join us for the celebrations.

We chose the Island of Meedhuffushi, otherwise known as Sun Aqua Vilu Reef which is located in the Southern Atoll. Not only is it surrounded by an exceptional reef, but it also offered a 3-bedroomed suite to house the kids and honorary kids! 

Observations:

Three key things stood out for me about this Maldivian getaway. Firstly, the similarity of island resorts, but also nature and migrant workers caught my attention:

1 – Similarity of island resorts

Whilst we’re certainly not experts on Indian Ocean tourism, this trip was our second visit to the Maldives and we’d spent countless hours beforehand browsing a multitude of resorts. We concluded that whilst price can vary greatly between islands, the only thing that sets them apart is the level of quality you can expect to receive. Ultimately, islands offering the highest standard of quality command the highest price tags. So whether you lash out a few grand or a few tens of grands, you’re likely to have a place to snorkel, a villa to reside in, a hut to dine in, palm trees aplenty, an abundance of sand and a perfect climate!

All the photos below were taken at Sun Aqua Vilu Reef during our stay, but would you have really known that if we hadn’t pointed it out?!

2 – Nature

What is amazing to see in the Maldives is the preservation of island wildlife and their habitats. Each island is proud of all of its residents, be it two-legged, eight-legged or none at all! So whether they’re scaly, feathery or slimy it’s an unspoken rule that you leave them alone.

Like most local islands, Sun Aqua Vilu Reef is home to many wildlife species. We saw snakes, crabs, blackbirds, herons and fish all in their natural habitats and it added to the experience. Whether it’s the sound of the tropical morning birdsong, the shimmering sight of them in the sea or the burrows crabs leave in the sand – there’s nothing quite like appreciating nature in nature!

3 – Migrant workers

A nice reality of this trip was the diverse make-up of the island’s staff who were all extremely pleasant and helpful. That said, we were left with a tinge of sadness to think that they spend their entire life existing to create paradise for others. It would have been settling to know that they also enjoy a decent quality of life. Cast miles away from their loved ones and residing in the inner cordoned off part of the island can’t be easy. The island personnel appeared to be ‘on-call’ 24 hours a day. We noticed the catering team were in the restaurant for breakfast opening at 7:30am and worked right through to last serving at 10pm.

Mindful that we have no influence over the island’s staffing practices, at least being aware of them offers the chance to be especially respectful to the team and diligently generous with our parting tip.

Ratings of our stay:

I’ve rated aspects of our stay and places we visited below.

Seaplane and arrival 

Given its distance from Malé, seaplane is the only form of transport to the island. Travelling on a seaplane was a first for all of us, as our first trip involved a speedboat. As such, we were fairly apprehensive when climbing aboard. I was shocked to discover how high seaplanes fly. It was more like an internal chartered flight than the ‘water-skimming’ experience I thought it would be. 

It wasn’t just the altitude that caught me by surprise, the sheer noise of the engines was far louder than I’d expected too. The 45 minute flight wasn’t enjoyable, though the Captain’s informal approach to flying an aircraft put me at ease. He had a laid-back attitude, laughed a lot with the flight crew and flew the plane in bare feet! Oh my, what a bizarre experience!

Once the ordeal of the seaplane hop was over, we were greeted by boat on a nearby holding island then finally whisked to our final destination. What an incredibly amazing feeling it was when we finally stepped foot on Sun Aqua Vilu Reef – we were exhilarated and exhausted at the same time. The island team handed out fresh coconut juice (still in the shell of course) and cold towels as we congregated in the welcome bar. 

The healing Maldivian sunshine and sounds of a tropical setting triggered comforting memories of our first trip. And with that, my shoulders relaxed, my mind emptied and I kicked off my shoes with much delight. Hello Maldives – it blumin’ great to see you again! (Overall rating 89/100)

Resort: Sun Aqua Vilu Reef

Sun Aqua Vilu Reef is one of a number of islands owned by Sun Siyam Resorts. The island had many features including 103 villas, 4 restaurants, a communal pool, gym, spa, watersports centre and much more. Overall, I’d say the island quality was to a high standard. (Overall rating 95/100)

Accommodation

We stayed in a Sun Aqua Pool Villa on the sunset side of the island. The villa was circular-shaped and had a Superking bed positioned right in the centre. It was airy, modern and relatively compact. 

The outside bathroom made the villa extra special. It was a nice treat to step out into the warm air to bathe and shower – the best possible way start or end the day.

We also had a private outdoor pool which was lit-up by night. Although we didn’t use the pool by day, we certainly made up for it by night – coupled with a glass of fizz, light music and a chocolate minstrel or two!

The kids stayed in the Presidential Suite, or Grand Reef Villa as it’s been renamed. This two-bedroomed wooden water villa is located at the furthest point of the island. It sleeps six people and provides the ultimate level of luxury. Our cursory nose-poke around their palatial ‘log-cabin’ was incredible. As far as accommodation ratings go, this villa will take some beating. (Overall rating 93/100)

Island Restaurants

The main circular restaurant was divided into thirds, offering an outdoors eating area, an indoors eating area and a delightful buffet section. 

Food was freshly prepared for each sitting. There was a variety of hot dishes, salad bars and chef-manned cooking stations, the restaurant catered for every guest and every taste.

We stayed on an all-inclusive board basis and were impressed by the volume and choices of food and drink available. We certainly didn’t come away short-changed or hungry! (Overall rating 93/100)

Dolphin Trip

We decided to take advantage of the island’s dolphin excursion. The late afternoon trip was great fun although the choppy water and high speeds might not be for everyone. We sailed for about 45 minutes before reaching the ‘dolphin zone’, then spent a good half an hour chanting, whistling and photographing them. What peaceful creatures dolphins are – it was uplifting to see them riding the waves like diligent surfers in their natural habitat. We watched the sun set and returned to the island just in time for dinner. (Overall rating 92/100)

Watersports

There are plenty of ways to wet your fins and submerge in the island’s waters. Snorkelling was a given and we spent hours floating across the reef edge taking in the sights of the many incredible creatures that live there. The reef turtle was super-friendly and we loved watching it gnawing away at the coral – not exactly the food you’d expect a water giant to eat!

The island’s watersports centre has equipment for kayaking, paddleboarding and jet-skiing if you’re up for it. We didn’t take part in the jet-skiing but really enjoyed our kayaking and paddleboarding workouts. (Overall rating 93/100)

Other island activities

The leisure and entertainment options on offer caters for everyone. Each evening in the main bar you can enjoy sounds of a live band, boogie at the disco, bellow-out at the karaoke or get competitive at the crab racing event. We dabbled in all of the above and it was a fun way to spend the evenings.

We also used the on-site facilities such as gymnasium and afternoon nibbles on the viewing deck. A particular highlight of the day was watching the Sun Aqua team feeding the rays by the jetty.

On our last evening we were invited to a canapés and drinks soirée where guests get the chance to mingle with the Sun Aqua team. To the sounds of live music, we spent an hour or so in this really idyllic setting, soaking up the atmosphere before the final sunset of our trip came down on us. It was the most pleasant way to see out what had been a spectacular holiday. (Overall rating 93/100)

Other observations:

Miscellaneous experiences or things that caught our attention.

Missing baggage and rush to catch the seaplane

Having experienced a severely delayed Emirates flight on our last holiday, and an Air France flight on the holiday before that, we jetted off to the Maldives with an open mind and little expectation that everything would go according to plan. After all, when you’re at the mercy of various aviation personnel spanning multiple destinations across thousands of miles – it’s best to go with the acceptance that anything can happen!

We’d been prepping ourselves for the inconvenience a delayed flight would have on us. Given that seaplanes can’t take-off from Malè after 4pm and our flight was due to land at 2pm – we didn’t have a huge window to allow for error. Thankfully, luck was on our side this trip and despite a small delay – we still managed to make all of our connections. That said…

When we arrived at Malè we discovered that our luggage hadn’t arrived with us. It took 24 hours to be reunited with our cases, though Emirates provided an ‘amenities over night bag’ as a goodwill gesture! It’s a good job we jetted off with an open mind!

Celebrations

It would be wrong to wrap-up this blog without at least referencing two major events that happened during our stay. Not only was the trip a half-century marker for my other half, but it also encompassed a very special wedding proposal – my daughter’s! And what a privilege it was to be part of their celebrations.

Summary:

Our second trip to the Maldives gave us everything and more than we wished for. I think it would be impossible to feel let down in this part of the world unless you hit a rare and unlucky break with the weather.

My biggest regret was that we didn’t book to stay for longer. Six days and seven nights was not long enough considering the length of time we’d travelled to get there. Going forward, a ten or eleven night stay will be our minimum duration for a flight that exceeds eight hours.

Thank you, Maldives. Once again you exceeded all our expectations. We have the most amazing memories of times with our families that we’ll treasure forever. (Overall Holiday Rating 95/100)

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Date of visit: 15 January 2020 to 22 January 2020

Intro

I took advantage of a work trip to Virginia by doubling it up with a four day city break to the city that never sleeps, New York.

It’s a shame I can’t write about my Reston, Washington and Maryland experiences as this blog is for shared adventures only. But I can start by mentioning our big-hug rendezvous at Penn Station – the point from which our big city expedition began. After five days apart we had much to catch-up on and a wild and wonderful destination to explore together.

Observations:

Three key things stood out for me in New York. Firstly, it’s recognisability, but merging of old and new and tipping etiquette caught my attention too:

1 – Recognisability

Do you ever get the feeling you’ve been somewhere before? Well I’ve never had it more in abundance than when I visited this city. It struck me just how iconic New York is. I’d wager bets it’s the most famous city on the planet – and most certainly the most recognisable.

As we walked the streets I felt a comforting sense of familiarity, just as though I’d been there before. I knew the layout of Times Square, felt at home in Central Park and completely au fait with the yellow taxis driving on by. It’s probably due to the movies or TV shows I’ve seen over the decades featuring New York backdrops. Home Alone, Spiderman, Dick Tracy, King Kong… I could go on. Although we think movies just wash over us, the finer details still manage to leave an imprint on the cortex!

2 – Merging of old and new

Cities across the globe, comparable in size to New York, are usually much younger. It’s fair to say that by comparison New York is knocking on a bit! There are so many remnants of yesteryear dotted around the city which blend in beautifully with the new and modern developments. Hudson Yards is a classic example of an old industrial shipping hub, standing proudly among new glass skyscrapers. Wall St was similar, the old-style stock exchange building is nestled alongside new architectural statements that modernise the skyline.

3 – Tipping etiquette

As a Brit who resides outside London, I’m used to tipping etiquette as an occasional gesture made by choice. In the U.S. tipping of about 25% is an expectation and as such is added to your bill – whether you are impressed with the service or not.

Leaving such a hefty tip was a cultural shift for both of us. Even buying soft drinks at the bar left me feeling rather uncomfortable and very short-changed! But tipping is the thing to do, so if you visit New York, be prepared to add about 25% to your intended spends.

Ratings of our stay:

I’ve rated aspects of our stay and places we visited below.

Accommodation: Citizen M Hotel 

We stayed at Citizen M Hotel, a narrow, boutique hotel conveniently located on the doorstep of Times Square. We were quite taken by the sophistication of the place. It was modern, unusual and cleverly designed. The architects and interior designers have maximised every metre of space and used deceptive design tricks to make the hotel interior look bigger than it is. The bold and bright entrance lobby could be mistaken for an art museum. With colourful artefacts, ginormous hanging murals and intelligent use of mirrors – Citizen M certainly made a statement!

Our room was small and narrow, approx 8ft wide with just enough space to fit a bed at the far end by the window. Despite feeling a bit hemmed in, our room was clean, comfy, and provided everything we needed. After all, we weren’t visiting New York to spend four days in a hotel room! Lighting, heating and other electrics in the room were operated by an iPad by the side of the bed. How many hotel rooms are as techie as that?

The hotel’s plush rooftop bar and terrace is situated on the 21st floor. For us this was icing on the cake – to stay in what is effectively a high-end budget hotel yet still have access to a vibrant skyline bar is not to be sniffed at. It served as an excellent place for us to unwind and inhale the views and buzz of the city.

Much about this hotel was unconventional, in a good way. Customer information notices were cleverly written. Straight to the point and drafted in a friendly, informal manner – kudos to the agency and copywriter! Traditional lobby reception desks have been replaced self-service kiosks and this was no bad thing. Staff were still on hand to offer support if required. I was really impressed with Citizen M, they put the needs of a modern guest at the heart of everything and then craft the hotel around that. I’d describe it as a no-frill with frills place to stay! (Overall rating 91/100)

Times Square

As our hotel was located on Times Square, we spent plenty of time absorbing, or trying to absorb, this famous site and tourist hotspot. The area is jam-packed with billboards, digital billboards and LED screens. The vibrance and variety of colour is intense, as is the strobing nature of the screens. It’s as though you’ve got a million digital gremlins surrounding you all screaming “look at me, look at me”. Your eyes don’t know where to land, and as soon as they do land, they soon skip to another screen because its digital gremlin has just won over your gaze. The word ‘tripping’ succinctly sums up the feeling of being in Times Square!

Other than the insane use of lightbulbs and Ozone-burning levels of light pollution, Times Square has an appeal for the crowds it draws. The place is heaving, morning, noon and night. It makes for an excellent spot to people-watch and an epic platform for a photo op.

Watch out for the ‘cartoon characters’ who roam Times Square looking for unsuspecting tourists. They lure you in for a photo and then expect a payment. There are some weird, wonderful and outright bonkers individuals that frequent Times Square yet all of them have a role to play in adding to its unparalleled pizazz and character. (Overall rating 93/100)

Ground Zero

We both vividly remember the fateful day in 2001, a horror I don’t think we’ll ever forget. I imagine most people have conflicting thoughts about visiting Ground Zero, both wanting and not wanting to go at the same time!

When we arrived at the site of the former twin towers, we headed to the North Tower memorial. Set amid a stunning tree-lined garden area, it’s a peaceful place where people go to gather their thoughts and remember the incomprehensible loss that day. We adopted the unspoken rule of remaining quiet and sombre during our visit and didn’t pick up the tempo until we’d vacated the site.

The external memorials are footprints of where the old towers once stood. Each has been crafted into a waterfall and the external ledge displays the names of each victim taken in the 9/11 atrocities. On a birthday anniversary, a white rose is placed on the name plaque. A thoughtful way to remember the people lost.

We didn’t realise that the site of Ground Zero also included a museum. But underground, spanning the entire footprint where the World Trade Centre towers once stood, is the most fitting, tasteful and well-thought-out tribute to all those who lost their lives. Without adding too many spoilers here, it’s one of the most intense, emotive yet beautiful experiences I’ve had in my lifetime, a real must visit. (Overall rating 94/100)

Statue of Liberty cruise

I’ve always had a mini-fixation with Lady Liberty, though I’ve no idea why. There’s something about the surge of power she exudes in the way she holds that torch. By contrast, she also serves as a comforting sight – particularly for so many travellers over the years.

We took a one hour Liberty cruise as part of a bus-stop tour package. We departed from Liberty Station and circled the Hudson river, skimming past Liberty herself and then around the tip of lower Manhattan towards Brooklyn and the famous bridges.

We were lucky to depart at the end of day so benefitted from seeing the sights by daylight and lit up by night. Liberty is far more green in colour than I’d anticipated and she’s certainly more lonely that I thought too!

The New Jersey skyline by night was intriguing – taking on a modern glow and vibe. We didn’t explore it beyond the Liberty cruise but New Jersey will be on our ‘places to visit’ list if we venture here again. (Overall rating 91/100)

Empire State building

The word ‘Empire’ says it all. For a period of time, the Empire State building was the ruler of the global skyline. And of all the skyscrapers we could have visited during our trip, the Empire State was top of our list.

Finding the entrance door to the viewing deck wasn’t easy, I think we stumbled on three potential ways in before finding the right one. Once inside, the art-deco style that defines the exterior, takes up every inch of the inner walls. Whether it’s the bold vintage font signage, the geometric wall features or the use of mirrors, dark wood and marble – you can’t help but feel as though you’ve been sent back in time.

The route to the top isn’t the speedy catapult experience you’re accustomed to with modern skyscrapers. It’s a slow, spiralling walk, lift-hop and climb to the summit. It’s not without charm and interest though. The corridors are lined with snippets of the building’s history. Whether it’s a reenactment of the materials, methods and labour involved in the build, a collection of the movies featuring the famous tower or a gallery of celebrity selfies who have visited this fine structure – we found plenty to keep us intrigued and amazed!

To avoid queuing for the lift we decided to take the final 15 floors by foot, via a narrow industrial stairwell to the side of the building. It certainly got our blood pumping and heart racing by the time we reached the top! And that surge of adrenaline stayed with us for some time. As we laid eyes on the immense concrete jungle beneath us, we were captivated. We spent a good hour at the top of the Empire State – feeling the natural sway, calmed by the tranquility and amazed by the views. We paid a little extra for our tickets so we could visit the building’s highest public viewing platform a few floors up. We didn’t didn’t feel it offered anything different, let alone extra, so not something I’d recommend splashing out the cash for. (Overall rating 92/100)

Hudson Yards – the Vessel

Located close to the city’s former industrial hub, where global shipping meets U.S. rail, lies Hudson Yards – a new redevelopment site of 28 acres. The vicinity is home to more than 100 shops, restaurants, residences as well as businesses, plazas and gardens. Positioned centre stage in this trendy and vibrant neighbourhood is ‘The Vessel‘, a sculpture-cum-tourist attraction that looks like a UFO or extraterrestrial leave behind!

It’s pretty impressive though and certainly captures your attention. Standing 16 storeys high (or 46 metres) this architectural intrigue offers remarkable views of the city, the river and beyond. It combines 154 flights of stairs and an impressive 2,500 steps. I loved the geometry of this structure, it reminded me of an optical illusion drawings.

A fantastic few hours of our NYC trip was spent in Hudson Yards overlooking The Vessel as we fine dined – it was one of my holiday highlights. Sadly, the ticket entry method of getting into the structure caught us by surprise and as it was fully booked all afternoon we were not able to climb up. (Overall rating 91/100)

Central Park

I’d never considered how vast Central Park would be until we visited. It is ginormous! What I began to appreciate as we walked through the grounds was the vast amount of planning, thought and order that must have gone into its development. It oozes function yet beauty combined. Central Park features ice rinks, lakes, running and cycling circuits, bridges and fountains to name a few.

We spent four hours and about 12km walking the full park circuit, starting mid afternoon and going on into the evening. Some of our highlights include visiting Strawberry Fields, the memorial to John Lennon, watching rowing-boats along The Lake and observing the skaters on Wollman Rink. We also ventured out of the park to pay respects to John Lennon outside the infamous Dakota Building where he was fatally shot in 1980.

Central Park is one of New York’s many assets and I admire how it’s regarded and tendered by proud New Yorkers. (Overall rating 92/100)

Guggenheim Museum

Saturday was a wet day in New York and with little sign of breaks in the downpours, we decided to visit the Guggenheim museum. We had a short queue outside under our umbrella and it felt like our Paris Louvre trip all over again!

The building exterior is exquisitely beautiful. Built in the late 50s, this architectural masterpiece was so ahead of its time. The intelligently designed interior doesn’t disappoint either. Once inside, we were shocked to find hollow innards, with white spiralling walkways coiling the building’s entire inner circumference. What’s extremely impressive about the walkways is not only do they take you to the top floor but they also host the bulk of exhibition materials. I thought this was a genius idea and a sure way to ensure every visitor sees every exhibition. Apart from the adult-only installations which are reserved to over 18s.

After reaching the museum’s upper-most level on about level six, we started our slow spiralling decent, calling in at the Guggenheim cafe for refreshments half way down.

I have huge respect for the devout designers and architects who were involved in the build of the Guggenheim. And I’d recommend a visit if only to fully appreciate the magnificence of the structure alone. (Overall rating 93/100)

Broadway – The Lion King

So muscials aren’t really our thing, but when on Broadway and all that!

As we hadn’t booked theatre tickets before our trip we were pretty limited for choice as the shows we might have opted for had all sold out. Shows on Broadway seemed to command eye-watering ticket prices, so be prepared to stump up some big bucks if you want to watch any of them.

The Lion King turned out to be a great show and allowed a few hours of light entertainment to wash over us. Hakuna Matata! (Overall rating 93/100)

Brooklyn Bridge

We’d planned to visit Brooklyn via the open-top bus. However there’s only one bus service each day to Brooklyn and we didn’t make it to Downtown Manhattan in time for its departure

As it turns out, our missed bus episode was a blessing in disguise and it offered the opportunity for us to get to Brooklyn on foot via the famous Bridge built in the late 1800s.

The bridge carries motor vehicles, cyclists and pedestrians. Although cars have a separate channel to cross, pedestrians and cyclists are merged together on a narrow wooden walkway. It was a bit cramped, but it didn’t ruin our walk to the other side.

When we arrived at Brooklyn we were unsure which direction to go. Considering the volume of visitors that cross this bridge, I’m surprised clear directions, or even better, a safe walkway haven’t been put in place. We knew we wanted to get to the riverfront and so we had to navigate the busy road infrastructure to get there.

Brooklyn has character, that’s my lasting impression anyway. There’s an abundance of its old industrial past taking on a new lease of life and it was great to see the redeveloped waterfront.

Our main aim of the Brooklyn trip visit was to capture a few iconic shots. Firstly a shot of the New York skyline with Old Pier 1 in the foreground and secondly a shot of Manhattan bridge anchorage with old buildings either side. To our amazement, we managed to find both vantage points and spent a short time snapping to our heart’s content! (Overall rating 92/100)

Other observations:

Miscellaneous experiences or things that caught our attention.

Grand Central Station

Grand Central Station wouldn’t have been on my ‘must see buildings’ list – but thankfully it was on Craig’s.

If I could define the word ‘wow-factor’ then Grand Central Station would be it. After all, it’s only a mere entrance hall for passengers and commuters to walk through as they arrive and depart from the city. Astonishing then that it resembles a palace or grand hall.

On a mezzanine level we found a large Apple store and as we looked over the balcony we were drawn in to the sheer beauty of this building. Its grandeur really is something else. (Overall rating 90/100)

Signature Stores – Starbucks Reserve & Apple

It’s not like me to feature a retail store in my blogs, but this time I’m featuring two!

The signature Apple store located on 5th Avenue recently underwent a refurb so we had to go in and take a peak. Hidden under the streets of the city is a technological lair – pulling in the loyal punters, just like us. Apple really have set the bar high. The den is packed with design features such as living walls, glass, lighting and trickery.

By pure chance we stumbled across a Starbucks Reserve store in the vibrant and cosmopolitan Vessey St area of the city. We hadn’t read up on this ‘home of commercial art’ before our trip so we were pretty flukey to just happen to be walking by! But when we glanced through the window, we absolutely had to go in!

We were utterly amazed by this signature store, it reminded us of Wonka’s Chocolate Factory. With a large copper cask as centrepiece, a mechanical roaster centre stage and a network of bean-carrying tubes hanging from the ceiling in all directions – it’s a place of marketing genius offering a playful environment for local Starbuckers!

It got me thinking that signature stores are now more about making a statement than selling products. As such, I expect there will be more of these to come. (Overall rating 93/100)

Lack of healthy food!

On every corner of almost every street we found a street-food stall offering Hot Dogs, Burgers, Curries and more. It didn’t come as a huge surprise as New York has long held the title as the home of fast food!

What did come as a surprise was the lack of outlets selling healthy food. I’m not suggesting that New York doesn’t offer healthy food, but I would say it’s sparsely available and difficult to find!

Street Art

With the many shapes, designs and formats in which street art appears across the city, allowing them to escape your attention is virtually impossible. We loved the make-up of street art in the city and whether created for marketing, fashion or simply to make a statement, they all felt perfectly fitting. Painted mural-style advertising is a fast-growing trend and something I think we’ll see more of in the UK. The snaps below show a selection of street art that particularly caught my eye.

Wall St

We were keen to see Wall St and the New York Stock Exchange (NYSE) to get a feel for what the globe’s financial hub is really like!

It wasn’t riveting, but it did conjure up lots of wonder and imagination as to the emotions and experiences that have taken place within the walls of these buildings. Elation, devastation and everything in-between I expect. The two local statues, a fearless girl and the bull of Wall St, were pretty cool. (Overall rating 86/100)

Summary:

Our New York trip was jam-packed, stacked-out and full-on! But I don’t think we expected anything other. We crammed in as much as we could during this trip and saw almost everything we wanted to and more.

I wish we’d seen High Line, an elevated railway line now converted into an impressive walkway – I’ve heard so much about it since returning home but sadly not before we went.

Otherwise, I think we came away with a good sense and feel for the city that is NYC. The place had never appealed too much before my trip, but aspects of New York impressed me more than I thought they would. (Overall Holiday Rating 92/100)

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Date of visit: 24 October 2019 to 28 October 2019

Intro

I can’t quite recall what inspired us to visit Muscat. In fact neither of us seem to remember how or why we managed to stumble across this relatively low-key gem of the Middle East. But crikey we’re glad we did! We were in desperate of some rest and relaxation and that’s exactly what we got.

After a significantly delayed outbound flight, and hours of hanging around airport lounges, we arrived at the resort nine hours later than scheduled. Although we were both pent-up with tiredness and frustration, within seconds of arriving at the resort, the warming smiles, cold towels and refreshing peach juice soon wiped away the day’s ordeal..

Observations:

Two things stood out for me in Muscat. Firstly, the the immense humidity, but the rugged landscape also caught my attention:

1 – Immense humidity

The change in air temperature always grabs your attention when arriving in a warmer climate. But nothing prepared us for the sheer humidity that greeted us in Muscat. Anyone wearing glasses will relate to the inconvenience wet air brings, particularly my fiancé! The humidity levels were around 60-70% during our stay and, although typical during Summer months, took some getting used to. It’s not just glasses or sunglasses that attract the microscopic droplets – windows, furniture, mobile devices and even skin all had a permanent coating of condensation! Being clammy and sticky all over became par-for-the-course. It wasn’t all bad though, once you’d acclimatised it didn’t feel that noticeable.

2 – Rugged landscape

I’d always assumed that Oman was just one flat, gigantic desert. But it’s not. It’s a mountainous region and the sandy coloured hills stretch the entire west coast. The roads that span across the rugged hills are tastefully woven into the landscape, it makes for some spectacular views, particularly alongside the coastline. Oman is of significant interest to archeologists, since remains of early humans were discovered buried in caves carved out of the mountains last century.

Ratings of our stay:

I’ve rated aspects of our stay and places we visited below.

Resort: Shangri-La Al-Husn 

Shangri-La turned out to be exactly what we expected – luxurious, tasteful and Eastern. Our luggage was discreetly taken from the taxi on arrival and delivered straight to our room. On check-in, we received a room upgrade before being escorted there by the hotel manager who gave us a whistle-stop tour of the site en-route. Within seconds of arriving at our sea-view room, we heard the satisfyingly familiar Shangri-La knock at the door. We knew this meant only one thing – complimentary room service, this time in the form of freshly-made hot peach tea. It was poured into quality chinaware by a smiling waiter. It’s the incidental Shangri-La touches like this that never fail to make you feel anything other than special.

The resort is part of a bigger complex encompassing two other hotels, Barr Al Jissah and Al Waha. The Al-Husn resort is far superior and whilst residents from there can visit the other two resorts and facilities, the freedom to roam freely throughout the complex isn’t reciprocated for non Al-Husn guests.

The resort resembled a Moroccan village with arched stained glass windows, iron candle holders and dark wooden fretworks positioned at every opportunity. And our five-star room was no exception. The headboard was plush with dark wood fretting and the lampshades were designed to cast stencilled lighting across the wall. Our bathroom featured a clear glass wall, making chilling time in the bath a visual delight. Whilst bathing, we could see into the bedroom and beyond to the mountain rocks in the distance. Signature decor designs that provided us a cosy little boudoir for our eight night stay.

We overlooked the endless pool, which trickled down the rocks and seemingly into the ocean. In summary, Shangri-La Al-Husn is an idyllic hotel in the most picturesque of locations.

Resort Restaurants

On the first night we ate in the Shahrazad restaurant, situated in the Al-Husn building. This delightfully authentic eatery served-up top notch Moroccan cuisine. Along with the obligatory falafels and hummus, we devoured a delightful terrine by candlelight to the subtle sounds of a four-man-band, playing traditional music delicately in the background.

Al-Husn’s main restaurant, Sultanah, imitates a yacht. With its nautical decor and sea-view veranda, it was not only spectacular to look at, but housed the most utterly delightful buffet fare. The quality of the food was second-to-none, although I wish more fresh fruit had been on offer. We ate breakfast here every day as part of our B&B board basis.

Other restaurants in the wider complex included Italian, Indian, Chinese, Spanish and French – so an excellent range of flavours that cater for every palette. We dined in the Italian and Spanish restaurants and the dishes were superb. In fact all of the foods we sampled during this stay were incredibly good and we’d struggle to pick a favourite. 

As mentioned, we stayed on a B&B basis and found the gratis pool snacks, afternoon tea from 3pm as well as canapés and drinks at 6pm a pleasant treat. They curbed our hunger pangs and we only needed to buy one main meal each day. These thoughtful, complimentary gestures brought added value and made the overall cost of the holiday very reasonable.

Pool

The majority of time spent in the resort was by the pool. We wanted a relaxing holiday and that’s exactly what we got. The pool area boasts an impressive 50m endless pool with jacuzzi, hydro jets, shaded areas and a waterfall, so time spent in the water was never dull. Pool staff are on hand around the clock and wait on guests at every opportunity. Whether laying out towels, bringing cool boxes of fresh drinks and nibbles, or retrieving lost or forgotten items (like an Apple Watch)! Their intent to make guests feel looked-after was commendable.

Service

I’ve probably eluded to the fact that we received exceptional service throughout, so there’s not much more I can add here other than a shout-out to the Hotel Manager, Emre Kilic, who went out of his way to interact with guests and make them feel special at every opportunity – a real credit to Shangri-La. The team also arranged an outing for us and put environmental sustainability in everyday things, such as providing metal straws which were served with all of our drinks. (Overall Rating 95/100)

Dolphin cruise

We decided to take a mini-excursion into the ocean ‘outback’ to watch the dolphins one afternoon. The local harbour is conveniently located on the other side of the complex, just a two-minute buggy ride away. The Water Centre at the harbour offered a variety of water-based excursions including snorkelling and scuba. We played safe and opted for a dolphin trip. Our personalised tour, hosted by a young-looking sailor, reached the dolphin hotspot after a 45 minute hi-speed boat ride. Although we managed to catch a glimpse of the dolphins, my lack of sea legs kicked in and we had to rapidly return to shore! (Overall rating 91/100)

Wadi Shab

Wadi Shab is a largely untouched valley located a 90 minute drive from Muscat. After reading some positive reviews we decided to visit the natural attraction during our stay. We hired an english-speaking taxi driver to take us there – little did we know this extremely friendly chap would become our personal tour guide for the trip!

After what felt like an eternity to get there, we parked up feeling rather excited for our forthcoming adventure – but completely unaware just how beautiful and breathtaking it would be. To get to the valley entrance you need to cross a small lake, so we jumped on a creaky paddle boat to take us there. Just like any valley, when you’re in the bottom it’s difficult not to look up and take in the beauty of what’s around. The strata-lined crevices that tower above are jaw-dropping. We walked through the valley, in the heat of the day, stopping periodically for a drink of water and a moment to absorb the wonder. The shades of blue in the water and sky, offset by the golden towers that domineer above, are truly spectacular. We sampled a few fresh dates en-route, which were laid out in the sun to dry. I remember the warmth and sweetness of this sugary fruit to be the perfect energy boost.

We passed several small water pools along the way and about 1.7km in, we finally reached the penultimate pool. In the stillness of the Omani midday sun and oppressive heat, it was the most welcome sight. We dumped our belongings on a rock and trotted on in. I can remember the calmness, the warm yet cooling relief of the water and the overriding desire to explore Wadi Shab further. We paddled, swam and tiptoed on through the turquoise river until we reached what we thought was the end. If it wasn’t for our friendly taxi driver we’d have probably turned around at this point and what a shame that would have been. Hidden in the rocks is a tiny opening which leads to a stunning waterfall in a cave. We had to breathe in and feed our bodies through the narrow crevice to get there – not recommended for anyone claustrophobic! But by goodness it’s the most worthwhile and exhilarating finale. The sights and sounds of the Wadi Shab waterfall tucked away in this unassuming cave was truly breathtaking. We spent a good 30 minutes lapping up this natural wonder and imprinting its enchanting beauty in our forever memories.

The walk back was relatively easy – still on a high after such a reward, how could we not be? I would 100% recommend a visit to this ‘place of natural wonder’ to anyone visiting Oman. The reviews do not do Wadi Shab justice. That said, if you are not relatively fit and healthy, or unable to walk and climb nearly 2km in immense heat, then you really should avoid going. As difficult as it is for me to write – this place could present a danger to those less fit than we are. It’s a tough trek and we saw many people turning back half way there. (Overall rating 97/100)

Bimmah Sinkhole

On our trip back from Wadi Shab we decided to stop off at another of Oman’s natural formations, Bimmah Sinkhole. We’d seen photos of this natural land-collapse-cum-swimming hole and wanted to experience it ourselves.

The sinkhole is situated close to the coastline and the immediate area has been renovated to incorporate a carpark and footpaths so it’s not quite as ‘untouched’ as the photos suggest. A concrete staircase has also been built into the wall of the sinkhole, most likely to ensure the safety of visitors who previously climbed down the cliff edge – a scary 30m drop!

We captured some great photos of the sinkhole and ventured down to the bottom to dipped in the aquamarine-coloured ‘puddle’! We decided not to go for a full-on swim but spent ten minutes in the viewing area before we succumbed to the heat and needed to get back up for air. (Overall rating 91/100)

Other observations:

Miscellaneous experiences or things that caught our attention.

Gem of the Middle East

Muscat, in fact Oman, appears to be slightly off the peripheral radar – certainly for most British tourists. Whilst most people decide to visit Dubai or Abu Dhabi – this neighbouring beauty seems to get overlooked. It’s far less bling and commercialised than both Dubai and Abu Dhabi, yet has presence in the world’s emerging economy. It’s a financially and politically stable country, with much to offer. In my opinion Muscat is the real gem of the Middle East, boasting authenticity, stability and beauty!

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Summary:

Our stay in Muscat was the relaxing, unwinding and luxurious holiday we wanted it to be. We spent the majority of our time on the Shangri-La resort and it was a perfect form of therapy.

That said, my biggest regret is that we didn’t visit the heart Muscat to discover the vibe and energy of the city itself. It boasts an Opera house, stunning Mosques and fine eateries – so we have far more to discover.

But we were so taken with Oman that we’ve returned home with a pact to live our best life out there at some point in the future. (Overall Holiday Rating 94/100)

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Date of visit: 5 July 2019 to 13 July 2019

Intro

Although we’d both been to Paris previously, this would be our first trip to the city of romance together. It seemed a fitting way to mark our fourth anniversary.

The four-day trip in early May should have flourished us with mild temperatures and perhaps a good amount of sunshine. Unfortunately, this wasn’t the case. With most days struggling to reach a high of 11 degrees or offer a break in the rainclouds, our Parisian getaway ended up wet and cold.

Observations:

Two things stood out for me in Paris: Architecture and Tradition.

1 – Architecture

The buildings that make up central Paris are almost all identical in style, structure and form. One street looks like the next, which looks like the next, and so on. It’s fitting that the term déjà vu originated in France!

But it’s not just the uniformity of the Parisian skyline that caught my eye. First and foremost, there are no skyscrapers. Certainly not for a considerable distance anyway. All buildings are of a similar height, perhaps five or six floors, plus roof, and crafted in the same light-coloured stone. The intricate exterior carvings and fretworks are impressive, as are the quantity and alignment of windows. It’s possible to stand at one end of a long avenue, cast your eye-line to the other end, and see a precisional row of windows, shutters and balconies. They are so incredibly uniformed, it takes the word symmetry to a whole new level.

2 – Tradition

France appears to have retained more of its tradition than most places I’ve visited. I can’t decide whether this is by chance or design. Be it the highly sought after french cuisine, the desire to sit out al fresco, or the quirky-dressed locals, France retains the stereotypes we were taught more than 30 years ago.

Shops still don’t open on a Sunday. I found this to be a pretty outdated concept for such a forward-thinking capital in the global market. Perhaps retaining their identity is more important to the French than adopting the open-all-hours approach.

I’ve outgrown my hunger pangs for french cuisine and regard pastries and breads as relatively dull ingredients these days. As such, the appeal of popping into a boulangerie or patisserie wasn’t as mouth-watering as it might have been. But we still sampled a few bakery delights during our stay and thoroughly enjoyed them.

Ratings of our stay:

I’ve rated aspects of our stay below:

Hotel: Hotel Louison, Montparnasse

We stayed in Hotel Louison which is situated in the Montparnasse region, just to the south of the city. The hotel was small, boutique and cosy. With timeless french decor throughout – it was the epitome of what you’d expect a traditional french hotel to be. A narrow, spiral staircase serves as the centrepiece of this hotel, spanning all 7 floors. The building is said to have had royal connections too. As rumour has it, Marquise de Maintenon secretly raised the bastard children of King Louis XIV in the confines of Hotel Louison’s very bricks and mortar.

We ate locally one evening at Harper’s Paris 15, a modern-traditional French restaurant, and it was spectacular. The quirky decor, the creative menu and sophisticated Parisian diners made our evening that extra bit special! (Overall Rating 88/100)

Eiffel Tower

We paid two visits to the Eiffel Tower area, one by day and one by night. Our first visit would see us in the vicinity of this magnificent structure for five hours! A slight faux pas on our part for not realising how late the sun sets in May. But it was worth the wait. When the illuminated, iconic landmark radiated against the dark sky backdrop, we felt anything other than short-changed.

It also gave us time to sit outdoors in Cafe des Officiers, a traditional bar where we sipped red wine and watched the tourists and locals wander on by. Observing the pop-up stall owners arriving to set up their blanket displays of mini Eiffels to sell to tourists was enlightening too. (Overall Rating 90/100)

Louvre

Saturday’s weather forecast was dire so we decided to spend the day indoors, keeping warm and dry. Epic plan – not! Our genius idea didn’t factor in that everyone else would be planning to avoid the rain too. As such, we ended up queuing for an hour and half to get in to the Louvre museum. After what felt like an eternity stood in the heavy pouring rain and cold temperatures, we weren’t in the best mindset to take in a spectacular plethora of art by the time we reached the entrance.

However, once inside we were mightily impressed. The Louvre is a maze and one you could easily get lost in. We lost the concept of time and spent endless hours soaking up the magnificence on display. The underground floor which was completed a few decades ago was tastefully built. It combines fine traditional architecture alongside brutally modern new materials that blend perfectly together.

The queue for the ‘Moaning Lisa’ (as I like to call her) was quite breathtaking, if not the painting itself. I imagine most people go there so they can selfie with the famous lady! We didn’t get close enough for the must-have selfie, but we managed to snap a photo of others selfieing with the iconic portrait instead. (Overall Rating 93/100)

Grand Arche

On the outskirts of Paris stands a tall, modern structure in the shape of a hollow square frame. We took a 36km round walk to see it, and it was worth every second of the time we spent on foot. The area surrounding the structure, known as ‘La Defense‘, was an unexpected surprise too. It comprises a large business district, residential apartments and leisure or recreational zones. From my observations it looked to be THE place to live and thrive for young professionals and families. Once we reached the Grand Arche, we climbed the structure’s base level steps, turned around and cast our eyes to the unimpeded straight-line views of the Arc de Triomphe in the distance. I’m certain this alignment wasn’t a ‘by chance’ consequence of the structure’s development. (Overall Rating 90/100)

Champs Elysees and Arc de Triomphe

The Champs Elysees‘ pedestrian-only streets came as a huge shock – it’s nothing like the frenzied, dodgem-like set up I remember from the early 90s. Lining both sides of this famous street are high-end retail outlets, ideal for the hoards of billionaires who visit Paris, just to shop. We popped into one of the department stores to use their ‘facilities’ and were blown away by the Japanese-inspired interior. The mixed-gender, zen-influenced lavatories had heated seats – a very plush way to spend a penny whilst out shopping.

The roads surrounding Arc de Triomphe are notorious for bumper-to-bumper accidents. Not surprising really, there are no road markings on the cobbles of this road-rage hotspot. Under the Arc de Triomphe is a useful subway – a safe way to navigate the city I imagine. We walked under the Arc and onward to a busy street market in a residential area not far from the iconic landmark – worth another visit if ever we decide to return. (Overall Rating 91/100)

Le Jardin du Luxembourg and Bois de Boulogne

Our half-marathon stroll out of the city centre and back took us through a delightful forest, Bois de Boulogne. The picturesque area of 2,088 acres was filled with spectacular greenery, water expanses and walkways. Amid the parks, lakes and trees, recreational activities such as camping, watersports and even skating are on offer. Bois de Boulogne was an unexpected find and we were stunned that we’d not heard of it before our trip.

We wrapped up the day with a trip to Le Jardin du Luxembourg. A stunning Victorian garden which is home to the spectacular Palais du Luxembourg. I had visions of young mademoiselles from the start of last century holding sun parasols and dressed in pretty white and pastel costumes. It was a perfect way to reflect on the origins and past of the city. We hid under trees during a short downpour and managed to stumble upon a mini Statue of Liberty. During this trip I sensed a connection between New York and Paris in more ways than just the statue. (Overall Rating 90/100)

Sacre-Coeur

Our final day included a quick trip to Sacre-Coeur. Translating to Sacred Heart, this famous church is set on an elevated position to the north of the city and overlooks Paris for many miles in all directions. There are a number of ways to reach the church, we took a back-streets route and climbed a few hundred steps to reach the vantage point.

The memorable sights we took in made the climb totally worth it. The quaint little gift shops and cafés on the doorstep of Sacre-Coeur are well worth a visit too. (Overall Rating 90/100)

Summary:

I’m not going to let the weather dampen my summary of Paris. With that in mind it’s fair to say we were both impressed with the city of love although we didn’t fit in quite as much sightseeing as we wish we had. On our way back to the airport, we discovered how close we had been to the famous Moulin Rouge red windmill, but regrettably didn’t take the short walk to see it.

We also regret not taking the trip up the Eiffel tower, particularly to the restaurant located half way up. It was fully-booked during our stay and sadly we didn’t get chance to take advantage of some posh Eiffel nosh!

All in all, a pleasant trip, our delayed flight home by six hours was a little less thrilling! (Overall Holiday Rating 91/100)

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Date of visit: 3 May 2019 to 6 May 2019

Intro

Israel played a big part in my partner’s life. Eight years to be precise. In 1990 he found and resided at Kibbutz Kfar Hahoresh, a place he now regards as his second home.

We decided to visit his old stomping ground this summer, merging a three-day kibbutz reunion with six days exploring Israel by car. Destinations sourced, security risks scanned, off we jetted to the Promised Land.

Observations:

Four things stood out for me in Israel. Its religious heart, the young army, its natural beauty and middle-eastern cuisine.

1 – Religious heart

There’s so much history written in the Israeli soil, it’s difficult to visit without escaping its all-consuming religious past. Despite my non-religious upbringing I was still moved by the biblical undercurrent that commands the land. In Jerusalem, through the eyes of others, I felt the delight and fulfilment that religion brings.

2 – Young army

In Israel, it’s still mandatory for adolescents to complete two years National Service. As such, at the age of 18, young boys and girls flee-the-nest to spend time serving their country. Their presence patrolling the streets, on public transport and in the shops is unavoidable. Whilst there’s a degree of reassurance to see so many uniformed personnel in public areas, their  innocent young faces coupled with visible weaponry was a little unnerving.

3 – Natural beauty

The landscape that defines Israel is naturally beautiful. Contrary to what I imagined, it’s largely untouched. It boasts mountains, greenery, water expanses and golden dunes, and shores-up to the Mediterranean, Dead and Red seas. We spent five of the ten days driving through Israel and were taken-aback by the country’s delightful panorama.

4 – Middle-eastern cuisine

It has to be said, Middle-eastern cuisine really talks my language. It’s where the once humble chickpea was transformed into the almighty falafel. Accompanied with pickled veg, olive oil, hummus and tahini, it’s without doubt my food of worship!

It’s not just about falafel though, it’s about spices, colour, aroma and taste. The vibrant Shakshuka that Noga makes to perfection, the grilled halumi, olives, salads, pitta and zhoug all invigorate the palette with fire and zest. The sweet pastries to finish with and halva that melts deliciously with Arabic coffee are equally as scrummy. Israeli food gets my vote and would be my top-choice fare for a last supper!

Ratings of our stay:

I’ve rated aspects of our stay and places we visited below:

Kibbutz Kfar Hahoresh

Our first destination, after being starstruck in Tel Aviv airport by the almighty Jimmy Carr, was Kibbutz Kfar Hahoresh.

As mentioned, this 31-acre elevated community just outside Nazareth was home to my significant other for more than half of his 20s. The kibbutz was formed in the 1930s and operates around its on-site industrial bakery. The place where thousands of volunteers from around the globe worked to earn their digs over the decades.

People of the Kibbutz are salt-of-the-earth and despite being in unfamiliar territory, I was made to feel welcome in an instant. Ruud and Noga, who are lifelong friends, hosted our three days at Kfar Hahoresh. Noga, a kibbutz-born local, is a fountain of knowledge. She spent hours one evening talking me through the history of Israel; culture, politics and religion. With Nazareth glistening by night in the distance and my discovery senses on full alert, I began to feel as though I was truly starting to understand Israel. (Overall Rating 90/100)

Haifa

Our first jaunt out of the Kibbutz was a day-trip to Haifa. Haifa is a vibrant, cosmopolitan, coastal city situated in north-west Israel. Built on the slopes of Mount Carmel, you’ll need a healthy pair of lungs and sturdy walking shoes to climb to the highest point, approx 525m.

Haifa is the home of the beautiful Bahai Gardens, a holy place of worship for the Bahai faith and a stunning feature that spans the city. Beginning at its base, the gardens extend almost 1km up the side of Mount Carmel, covering some 200,000sqm of land. The gardens are linked by a set of steps flanked by twin streams of running water cascading down the mountainside.

The luscious green gardens imitate a palatial staircase in an open air fortress and are very well tended. Most of the gardens were closed when we visited so it was only by climbing a zig-zag route via adjacent streets were we able reach the peak. The view from the top, gazing down the Bahai Gardens then resting at the coastline, was breathtaking. There’s a relatively cheap cable car option, but we decided to forfeit a few buckets of sweat to climb there instead! Whilst we were up in the city heights, we grabbed a bite to eat at one of the best falafel places in Haifa – Falafel President. It’s a shame we can’t get falafel like this where we are in the UK! (Overall Rating 90/100)

Sea of Galilee

Our second outing took us north-east to the Sea of Galilee. For anyone unfamiliar, the lake is a biblical site where Jesus is said to have walked on water AND fed five thousand people. I couldn’t wait to find out if this place was as magical as the book suggests.

Sadly, I didn’t feel it. Whilst undoubtedly the Sea of Galilee is a picturesque location, the promenade was tired and unfinished. The usual cheap market stalls, haphazard shop fronts and ammonia-fragranced public toilets detract from the potential of this place.

The soaring temperatures of 38+ degrees and warm stagnant air didn’t help. The freshwater lake is recorded as the lowest on Earth so there’s no wonder that even on land we felt the need to come up for air. And that we did. Situated a short ten minute drive away is Mount Arbel, a stunning National Park and Nature Reserve serving as the ideal viewing platform. We spent a few hours trailing the reserve, stopping off occasionally to pose as Angels of the North-Israel. If only we’d found this idyllic location first!

Perhaps the chronic heat prevented us from giving the Sea of Galilee a fair review, but I’m pretty certain the short visit gave us the snapshot we needed to rate this as our least favourite Israeli destination. (Overall Rating 88/100)

Nazareth

Within walking distance from the Kibbutz (just) and being birthplace to Mary, seeing this little gem was always on the cards. We spent half a day meandering the streets that once heard the footsteps of a young Mary, Joseph and Jesus.

Nazareth‘s skyline comprises a range of architectures from different cultures. From mosques and churches to museums and shanty-homes. Each complementing the next, there’s a real sense that uniting difference can bring harmony. Predominantly home to Arab citizens, 70 per cent of whom are Muslim and 30 per cent Christian, as well as Jews, this place oozes the physical presence of faith and belief.

We visited the Basilica of Annunciation, a landmark Catholic church positioned on the site rumoured to have been Mary’s home. From the outside, this building is domineering and strong, resembling a fort. On the inside it’s heavenly and soothing. A building of two halves. Located centre-stage of this famous church is the ‘grotto’ otherwise known as the site of annunciation. The soil that lies here marks the very spot where the Angel Gabriel visited Mary to tell her she’d bear the son of god. It was compelling to see, if not through my own eyes, then the eyes of others. For the pilgrims stood around us, a visit to this site brings comfort and it’s difficult to deny or begrudge anyone that.

The sweet, smoky smells of Nazareth along with the chimes of religious sounds all add to the wonder. The sight of glistening-gold rooftops interspersed with greenery and mish-mash religious architecture makes this place magical. It was a humbling experience to visit Nazareth and one I’d readily to repeat. (Overall Rating 91/100)

Tel Aviv including Jaffa

In stark contrast to our first three days, we set upon the trendy city of Tel Aviv to soak up some fast-paced municipal vibes.

Firstly, Tel Aviv is nothing like the photos show. In fact, I’ve yet to see a picture that does Tel Aviv justice. Secondly, I’m nowhere near cool enough to give Tel Aviv the hype it deserves. I just hope having someone like me as a fan doesn’t detract from its groove!

As we drove through Tel Aviv one rush hour evening via the tree-lined residential area to the coastline, we inhaled the hustle and bustle of what’s just a normal working day here. Tel Aviv is young, vibrant and quirky, in more ways than one. The outlook here is one of acceptance and the motto, live and let live, is in abundance. Known as one of the gay capitals of the world, we had the privilege of gatecrashing a pride event during our stay. With so much love in the air and coming together of people, there’s a lot to learn from this city.

Another Tel Avivian delight is its stunning coastline. It stretches from the industrial north side right down to Jaffa, a historic area at the south of the city. Walking along the golden sandy coastline became our morning ritual, stopping off for a spot of brunch and a bit of people-watching.

Jaffa is an ancient port built on a cliff edge and presents a postcard-perfect photo op. It exudes the ‘well kempt’ neatness you’d expect to see at Buckingham Palace. We wandered through the quaint Jaffa streets to the traditional market area and climbed the wide steps to St Peter’s Bell Tower where we spent a short while taking in the views.

We walked miles exploring Tel Aviv during our three day stay. Taking in the traditional and new markets, impressive architecture and quirky streets. When sunset arrives, the super-buffed youths flock to the beach to see the day out playing a bit of volley ball and hooking up with their pals. Their energy created a buzzing atmosphere along the coastline and it was a pleasure watching them do their thing to the backdrop of a beautiful sunset.

Our final evening in Tel Aviv was spent in Fortuna Del Mar, a swanky bar and restaurant in the Marina. We spent hours at this watering hole knocking back the cocktails and losing ourselves in the open air music.

The duration of our city stay was at Carlton Tel Aviv Hotel on the seafront. With a rooftop pool, luxurious communal areas and first-class restaurants, it’s a hotel I’d definitely return to. Paying a little extra for a sea view is well worth the money. (Overall Rating 93/100)

Jerusalem

No trip to Israel is complete without seeing Jerusalem. It may be a troubled city and the media reporting may be alarming, but I just HAD to see it!

After a 45 minute bus ride from Tel Aviv, we landed in north-west Jerusalem. Then we took a 30 minute stroll down Jaffa Road into the Jewish quarter. Lined with shops and restaurants the entire stretch of Jaffa Road was pretty cool. It serves as one of the main arteries into the city, and is entirely pedestrianised, except for the regular trams that pass through!

The Western Wall was our first calling point. Security is pretty tight to get in (as you’d imagine) so we had to queue for a short while in the blazing heat. An inconvenience that completely pays off once you’re inside. As we walked through the dark entrance we were hit with by the huge expanse of openness. The four walls that surround the site don’t create a feeling of being hemmed in. Quite the opposite in fact. I took a few minutes to compose myself, before soaking up the magnificence of what I was seeing. The sight of the famous Western Wall triggered a melting pot of emotions. Witnessing a site that has caused so much dispute and hurt, yet love and compassion over thousands of years was surreal. I’ve seen images of the Western Wall in films and on TV, but nothing prepares you for the real thing.

The worshippers were equally as compelling to watch. Predominantly Jewish men, fussing around as they do, it was a pleasure to see the delight in their eyes. Although all visitors can pray, men and women must do so separately and each are directed to their respective section of the wall. Because of the divide, we decided not to pray but chose to watch others instead. My lasting memory was a father and son interaction as the father was teaching his teenage son what to do. Starting at the water fountain, washing their hands before taking to the wall to insert their written prayer into the crumbling mortar. Quite blissful.

We probably spent two hours venturing to different parts of the Western Wall before crossing the dividing line via a wooden bridge to see the Dome of the Rock. The colourful, golden-topped dome was impressive. Its octagonal exterior boasts blue mosaic tiles, setting it apart from typical mosques. As non-muslims, we weren’t allowed inside the building which was a real shame. The land that lies beneath this unique structure is said to be the place where God created Adam.

Our final stopping point, after getting lost in the maze that is the old market within the Western Walls, was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Another major pilgrimage site, this Church is said to be both the place of the crucifixion and the tomb of Jesus.

I was blown away with Jerusalem for so many reasons. Although it didn’t capture my faith, it increased my appreciation of it. (Overall Rating 94/100)

The Dead Sea

Our final three days were spent in central-east Israel at Neve Zohar. A largely untouched mountainous region overlooking the Dead Sea. The drive there alone was medicinal, with rugged, strata-lined rocks surrounding the intensely turquoise sea to form a stunning landscape. We free-wheeled down the snaky mountain road at a steady pace, stopping off a couple of times to take in the wilderness.

Officially the lowest place on earth, the Dead Sea sits at an impressive 430m below sea level. The heat and humidity is so intense it takes your breath away, and prevents any opportunity to over-exert. The salt-rich lake, surrounded by desert beaches, mineral spas and oases, offers the perfect retreat for anyone wanting to hibernate and replenish. Where do I sign?

We stayed in Herods Hotel, five-star accommodation with first-class facilities overlooking the almighty lake. From the moment we arrived, we knew it would be the ultimate place to unwind and within minutes of dumping our bags in the room, we were pacing towards the salty water. The first thing that caught my attention after dipping my toe in the Dead Sea was its temperature. It was unexpectedly warm and inviting. The second surprise was how oily the water felt. Of course it wasn’t oil, but high salt levels, around 30 percent, that create an oil-like consistency.

I couldn’t resist the urge to experience floating any longer, so with that I strode on in. The buoyancy, due to high levels of salt, takes some getting used to and I quickly learnt that defying floating was impossible. I laid in (or should I say on) the water for a good while, taking in the therapeutic facets this alleged, miracle water has to offer. With the barren Jordanian mountains domineering across the lake, I daydreamed about what this place might have been like to live in centuries ago. Heavenly I imagine.

We lounged in the Dead Sea a further four times during our stay, and on one occasion I succumbed to the ritual of being doused in mud. The unique water and mud combination contains minerals which are rumoured to contain healing properties. If it’s good enough for Cleopatra, it’s good enough for me!

I should wrap-up our Dead Sea experience by noting that although we were in a luxurious hotel with excellent facilities and perfectly located, the hotel staff were extremely rude and service at Herods was very poor. Quite possibly the worst I’ve ever experienced. (Overall Rating 94/100)

Masada

Our penultimate day in the Promised Land was one of exhaustion, amazement and achievement.

Waking at 4.15am is never easy, especially when the unwelcome sound of the alarm serves as a reminder of the mountain you’re about to climb! But, rumour has it there’s only one time of day to climb Masada, and that’s just before sunrise.

Standing an impressive 450m tall, Mount Masada is famous for its eye-watering history. The top of this magnificent rock was carved into an ancient fortress by Herod the Great in 31BC. The remains of his palatial home and civilian dwellings are still recognisable today. As story has it, a 950-strong Jewish community occupying the top of Masada in 72AD came to a brutal and cruel end as they committed mass suicide through fear of being captured by the Romans.

We arrived at the snake path entry point in good time, approx 5am. But had to wait 30 frustrating minutes in a long queue to get in. Once through the gates, having lost half-an-hour of our allocated climb time, we had to up the tempo. We endured a rushed and frantic climb to the top in order to reach the summit before sunrise. What normally takes approx one hour to climb, we managed to do in 40 minutes. It was HARD!

But my goodness it was worth every bead of sweat and every single step. We settled ourselves on a cliff-edge platform overlooking the eastern prospect with about two minutes to spare until sunrise. The feeling as we watched the golden ball emerge from the horizon was euphoric. The sun, wrapped in a bronzed blanket, emitted a warming hue across the landscape kissing our skin as it gained height. The silence on the mountain top was comforting. Particularly so given we were one of around a hundred climbers all witnessing the dawn of a new day in this beautiful location. We felt as though we were on top of the world.

After a short time imprinting this event onto our forever memories, we partook in the obligatory selfie shoot before trotting off to explore what else this mountain had to offer.

It was epic. The facilities and opulence this ancient neighbourhood had crafted out, not to mention Herod’s palace, were remarkable. We spent a couple of hours soaking up the history before starting our descent, which took around 15-20 minutes.

I can’t recommend climbing Masada highly enough to anyone who is fit and able to make it to the top. For those less able there’s a cable car option, but unfortunately it doesn’t get passengers to the top until after sunrise. The sense of achievement and utmost appreciation for this spectacular site, which bears the most devastating of stories, is perhaps my highlight of the trip. A must do.

I’ve had to discount a few points from my rating due to the completely unnecessary queue on arrival. We were fit enough (or crazy enough) to push our absolute limits in order to reach the summit in time for sunrise. A feat that others less able would not have been able to accomplish. (Overall Rating 96/100)

Other Observations:

Miscellaneous experiences or things that caught our attention.

Israeli people

Israeli people are loyal, friendly and proud. Whilst they may come across as stern initially, this cooler exterior is in no way a reflection of what’s inside. The term Sabra, meaning a Jew born in Israel, is also the word used for a cactus. Similar to the prickly pear, once you get past the protective outer layer, Israeli’s are full of goodness.

Summary

Israel was nothing like I expected. I adopted the ‘at home’ feeling almost on arrival and it didn’t diminish throughout our stay. At the hands of the dramatic way our media report these days, I ended up bracing myself for the worst. I imagined Israel to be full of danger and war zones, which triggered inner fears about visiting. How wrong was I?

I’d highly recommend Israel to anyone looking for a bit of culture. Bar the Sea of Galilee, this almighty land holds lots of promise. Home to some spectacular sites, rich cultures and mouth-watering fodder, what more could you want from a cultural getaway?

I’ve returned to the UK a better person and one who is appreciative of everything I’ve learned. I will most definitely return. (Overall Holiday Rating 94/100)

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Date of visit: 8 August 2018 to 17 August 2018

Intro

The guarantee of Emirati sunshine won our vote for a last-minute ‘winter blues’ getaway this year. January is notoriously a difficult month to holiday in, especially when you’ve only a week to spare. European destinations are too cold, but venturing further afield involves long-haul flights and disruptive time differences – Abu Dhabi in the UAE came up trumps on both fronts. We were lucky to have day-flights, both ways, so managed to avoid the bite of jetlag too.

Observations:

Two key things stood out for me in Abu Dhabi. Firstly, it’s similarity to Dubai, but also disparity between classes  caught my attention:

1 – Similarity to Dubai

The similarity between Abu Dhabi and its younger sister, Dubai, is striking. The landscapes, the malls, the people, the architecture are all completely interchangeable. Building construction is rife too. With closed roads, cranes and pouring concrete all in abundance, this place is also in the prime of development.

2 – Disparity between classes

Our trip to Abu Dhabi exposed a huge disparity between rich and poor. To see the Yas Marina Circuit and the Princes Palace, set amid some of the poorer habitats was eye-opening, or more accurately, eye-watering! My write-ups in this blog talk about the level of disparity in more detail but I suspect the distance between classes is far greater than at home and fewer people sit in the middle-class ground.

Ratings of our stay:

I’ve rated aspects of our stay and places we visited below.

Accommodation: Beach Rotana Hotel and Spa 

We stayed at the 5-star Beach Rotana Hotel and Spa. Located between the Abu Dhabi Mall and Gulf inlet, it couldn’t have been a more convenient place to stay. With shops, white sandy beaches and high-quality restaurants all on-site, we didn’t need to leave the grounds for the duration of our stay. That said, although the convenience factor was handy, we had no intention of giving up our sight-seeing plans.

The hotel was opulent and boasted an atmosphere in which anyone could feel looked after. From the smell of fresh lilies in the lobby daily, the classical sounds of the hotel’s violinist to the crisp, freshly washed towels – Beach Rotana is filled with little touches that make a real difference.

With good food aplenty, stunning views and lots to do, this place has something for everyone. Whether you’re a shopaholic or a sunbed worshipper – you can’t go wrong here. I would certainly revisit (Overall rating 90/100)

Yas Marina Circuit

Tuesday was Circuit-Day and Craig’s birthday, so we took a taxi to Yas Marina Island to soak up the fumes of the track and beauty of the marina.

Built in 2009, Yas Marina isn’t the only F1 circuit in the Middle East. Whilst I’m not one to make wild accusations, it’s a fair assumption that the billions of dollars cruising around the UAE gulf may have played a role in a second circuit being developed in the region. I’m sure the FIA were blissfully unaware of the financial benefits Yas Marina would bring when adding it to their F1 race calendar!

The entire complex known as Yas Island, including the iconic hotel and Marina, absolutely reeks of money. The structure of the W Abu Dhabi hotel is mysterious and captivating. It looks like a glass hood on a Bond villain lair as it sweeps across the track. It’s the place to stay for race day, if you’re wealthy enough to secure a booking that is!

Our first activity at the circuit was a driving experience on the track. My partner got to drive a F3000 car around the circuit and he LOVED the experience. The session started with 10 minutes of classroom training, followed by 20 minutes of circuit laps. Although the drive was in a tutor-led formation of four cars, it was still a hands-on and sensory experience for those taking part. For anyone with an interest in motorsport – this is a must.

We walked to the Marina and ate at the Martini Seafood restaurant which made for a pleasant way to take-in the surroundings. On the day we visited, the Marina resembled a ghost town. I suspect the tranquility of our time there was a far contrast to race day. We spotted a few luxury yachts on the VIP side of the Marina. One, a former yacht of Roman Abramovich, now belongs to Sheikh Abdullah bin Zayed (son of the UAE founder). Bizarrely, he pulled up in his matte-black Bugatti as we were stood taking photos of his yacht – awks!. The Sheikh seemed unfazed by our presence, unlike his bodyguard, who didn’t particularly like us hanging around!

On Tuesday evenings the circuit opens its gates to anyone who wants to bike, walk or run around the 5.5km track. During these free events, sharp floodlights illuminate the circuit and with around 500 exercise-goers taking part, the venue’s atmosphere oozes energy and hype. We decided to participate in the ‘communal workout’ and our run against the stunning backdrop of Yas Marina to the sound of music was soul-lifting. It was a wonderful way to end the day and a definite highlight of the trip. (Overall rating 93/100)

The Louvre

We didn’t know about The Louvre‘s expansion to Abu Dhabi until we started looking at this holiday. Unsurprising really. We’re not the most arty of people and it had only been open for two months when we arrived. But when we did discover that one of the world’s most famous museums had been licensed to the Middle East – we knew it warranted a visit.

From the outside, the building looks exactly how you’d expect a modern art museum to look. The metallic meshed roof anchored to white concrete boxes which are situated in the Arabian sea are an aesthetic delight. However, thanks to my Wakefield roots, I noticed many architectural similarities between The Hepworth (Wakefield, UK) and The Louvre (Abu Dhabi). It’s bizarre to think that my local art museum, in one of the UK’s most deprived districts, has the same architectural innovation to that in one of the most affluent cities in the world.

Once inside, The Louvre becomes cold and clinical – partly due to strict temperature controls to maintain the ancient artefacts, but also to compensate for the lack of natural light.

We walked around the museum in about an hour at a steady but not sluggish pace. The overall exhibition theme focusses on bringing people together and celebrating diversity. I think the curators’ aim was to highlight the similarities between all cultures and all people. It was thought-provoking to discover that our ancestors built, made, said and did things at the same time other cultures were doing the exact same. All blissfully unbeknown to each other. I was really touched by the sentiment and ethos behind the museum’s theme, if not so much the building itself.

The calibre of staff working in the viewing galleries left a lot to be desired. In one gallery, I was intrigued by the geometry-inspired graphics woven into the marble floor, walls and ceiling. The graphics contained place names and I couldn’t figure out the correlation between the place names and the glass domes so I asked the curator. He didn’t understand my question and explained that he didn’t speak English!

I’m not sure I’d visit The Louvre again but I’m glad I went. (Overall rating 89/100)

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

We knew before we booked this trip that one day we would see the Grand Mosque. Second only to the Taj Mahal, it’s the place of worship that even the hardened of atheists are lured to. After much deliberation about the best time of day to see the mosque, we opted for a late afternoon start in order to witness the structure by sunset.

Wanting to show my full respect, I dressed in long, dark, baggy clothing complete with headscarf. Alas, this proved to be a waste of time. On arriving at the entrance, I was told I wasn’t sufficiently covered up! So along with all other western-dressed female visitors, I was loaned a robe-like dress, ‘abaya’, to wear.

On entering the mosque grounds, two things became apparent:

1. We wouldn’t get to see the mosque from the sunset-facing side of the building. Access to the western (sunset) side, probably the most breathtaking, is only available to worshippers. That’s fair enough I guess.
2. We would be too close to get the best view.
   The vicinity outside the mosque’s grounds is a network of major roads, all of which are unsafe to cross on foot. In my opinion, putting visitors too close to the mosque to get the best view is a real faux pas. Though the cynic in me thinks this could have been a deliberate planning strategy – why would they build a masterpiece that encouraged visitors to stand far away?

Disappointments aside, let’s not take away the fact that the mosque itself was simply and utterly beautiful. It was a euphoric experience to see the glistening white marble, the symmetry of the architecture and the opulence of the domes. Shimmering from floor to ceiling and filled with intricate patterns, it felt natural and right to take-off shoes before entering. The central quadrant area in the exposed heart of the building contained a stunning mosaic-tiled floor. Sadly, the floor area of the quadrant was strictly out of bounds and heavily guarded by the security teams.

There must have been around 1,000 people visiting at the same time we did, and perhaps I felt this was just a bit too busy – but that’s how it is. It would be wrong to suggest limiting visitors or charging an entrance fee. This place is in high demand and quite rightly so – it should remain open to anyone and everyone who wants to view its splendor.

As the sun began to set, the building transformed from a white crisp exterior to a warmer, soft cream façade, before illuminating the sky in its blue manmade fanfare. All stages of the slow, unveiling transformation were elegant, dominant, and completely breathtaking. The mosque is an absolute must-see and I hope to visit again. (Overall rating 96/100)

The Corniche

On our last day, we decided to walk the 10km stretch of the seafront promenade, also known as the Corniche.

It was a warm day and the stunning reflections from the water were medicinal. The main road parallel to the promenade was a fair distance away and separated by trees, which brought a welcome calmness from the hustle of the city.

The Corniche area was busy, but not with tourists or locals. I think the crowds were migrant workers having some well-earned downtime. Probably those on low wages in the service sector who work extremely hard so we can have our luxury getaways. It was extremely pleasing to see them enjoying their piece of the city. They gathered in groups with picnic tables to spend time on the beach and waterfront, just being together as small communities.

It posed a glimpse into how the other half of Abu Dhabi live – a far cry from the wealthy tycoons. These people are probably here on a dream, and from what I witnessed, they were living that dream. It was a warming sight, normal people doing normal things.

From the Corniche, we walked further to a newly developed manmade pier known as Abu Dhabi Marina. It reminded me of the Palm Jumeirah Island in Dubai. At the far end of the marina is a hotel under construction, it had a striking resemblance to Dubai’s Atlantis hotel, which is also coincidentally located at the far end of an island! (Overall rating 89/100)

Other observations:

Miscellaneous experiences or things that caught our attention.

The Prince’s Palace

In the vague distance, away from roving eyes or opportunity to trespass, we caught a glimpse of the Prince’s palace – quite literally. His highness’s residence was striking. Symmetrical in design, just like the Grand Mosque and subtly coloured by a rotating display of lights. We peeked through a gate to take-in the view. It looked like another world, certainly another life. It was a hair-standing moment of inferiority to think how far removed we are from him and him from us.

It made The Louvre’s ‘we’re more alike than we think’ exhibition somewhat futile. The wonderful migrants playing on the beach just a stone’s throw from the residence of one of the wealthiest men on the planet brought an eerie contrast and dawning of realisation – we are actually more different than we think!

Next to the Prince’s Palace was the Emirates Palace, a five star hotel for the most discerning of clients. Both lighting up the skyline with pomp and ceremony!

Summary:

Abu Dhabi was a wonderful escape and we got just what we wanted out of this holiday – all bar the Ferrari World theme park perhaps!

I’d certainly go back. Our ‘January Blues’ was that of a different kind – blue sky, blue sea and calm mindset. There’s something about the Emirati soil, or should I say sand, that I fall in love with every time. (Overall Holiday Rating 88/100)

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Date of visit: 13 January 2018 to 20 January 2018

Intro

I’d always wanted to visit China, and what better way to do it than a ‘feet-first’ plunge into the world’s biggest city, Shanghai. With a population of almost 25 million I had no doubt it would be a magical place – why else would so many flock there?

Long-haul flights are always a bind, but after a relatively pleasant 14 hour journey, forgetting the 7 hour time difference, Pudong International Airport greeted us with an ‘ENORMOUS’ welcome. As would unfold over the coming days, enormous became par-for-the-course and overwhelmingly our one-word summary of the place!

We were fortunate enough to be staying in a residential area in the Nanxiangzhen district to the North West side of the city. My partner’s brother and wife have an apartment there and Irene, a native Shanghai’er, would become our fairy godmother for the week. It’s difficult to know how our trip would have been without Irene’s inside knowledge of the area, enabling us to do what the locals do. But considering the variety of things we packed-in to 7 days, I couldn’t have imagined it without her.

The timing of our trip coincided with the 2017 F1 Shanghai Grand Prix, adding another dimension to our cultural getaway. Of course we took advantage and spent the weekend inhaling the buzz, fumes and sounds of the race circuit.

Observations:

Four key things stood out for me in Shanghai. The first I’ve already eluded to; size and scale, but environment, advertising and culture also caught my attention. You can read more about these below

1 – Size and scale

It’s difficult to relay in words just how impressive this was, but the analogy I like to use is akin to that in fairytales. Remember the giant mushrooms in Alice in wonderland, the beanstalk that Jack climbed, or perhaps the peach that James woke up to? All disproportionately large, bold and colourful – yet somehow just perfect. Well that’s my take on Shanghai’s shopping malls, roads, rail infrastructure, buildings and trains. All tremendously vast and spacious, lit-up brightly and host to every marketer’s dream.

This leads nicely to my next observation…

2 – Advertising

Advertising and signage is everywhere! According to Irene, Chinese people are easily swayed by clever marketing and always looking for the next trend. No wonder Jean-Claude Decaux set his eyes on this place in the middle of last century – “where there’s most demand there’ll be most return”. But it wasn’t just the sheer volume of advertising that fascinated me, the content was equally compelling. The artwork is glaringly bright and colourful as though targeted at children, many featured graphic cartoon characters and let’s not forget QR codes!

3 – Environment

My third observation ties a few things together, I’m going to label them ‘environmental’. Shanghai epitomises the term Concrete Jungle. As someone who appreciates all things concrete, this was no bad thing, but by far the most amount of grey I’ve ever seen (sorry fifty!). Continuing with the grey theme is SMOG. Was it smog or low-lying clouds? is there a visible difference? it was odourless so I assume completely harmless. The images below show my favourite colour and material, grey and concrete, enveloping my new favourite city, Shanghai.

I found Shanghai to be a fast-paced tranquil haven. An oxymoronic string of words that shouldn’t, but do, fit together. The sound of movement was practically non-existent. Cars don’t seem to make noise, nor do trains, tubes or people. Shanghai’ers are mild, kind and unobtrusive.

4 – Cultural Differences

My fourth and final observation was cultural differences. As Shanghai is the largest city in the world I assumed there’d be high levels of cultural diversity. In some respects there were. For example, almost everything written or spoken in Chinese was duplicated / repeated in English – pretty impressive. However, the presence of people from different ethnic backgrounds was a rare sight, even in the heart of the city. People from Caucasian, Black or Indian descent were very much in the minority. We really enjoyed seeing every day locals doing every day things as shown in the picture below.

In one of our jaunts to an area just outside the city we, as Europeans, caught peoples’ attention. Despite an unlikely future career in modelling, my partner was asked to pose for a photo with a local. It was a touching request and Craig still believes he could be an internet sensation somewhere on a Chinese social media site! Not Facebook or Instagram of course as both sites are blocked by the Chinese government.

Ratings of our stay:

I’ve rated aspects of our stay and places we visited below.

Yuyuan Garden District

Our first day in Shanghai took me back about 35 years to the feeling I first had on discovering sweet shops. The onslaught to my senses was thrilling, with temple-like roofs, intricate wood carvings and red lanterns everywhere. I couldn’t stop looking up, taking pictures and being totally amazed by the China I’d always imagined. Yuyuan Gardens with the zig-zag bridge, famous dumpling house and of course pink blossom was fantastic – a must see.

We also spent a few hours meandering through TianZiFang, a former residential area which was once the home of thousands upon thousands of Shanghai’ers. The back-streets and alleys have been converted into small quaint shops and every street looks identical to the next. Without Irene pointing us in the right direction I’m sure we’d have got lost in the maze! We stopped for a drink and spent a good hour soaking up the wonder of the place. (Overall Rating 92/100)

Karaoke Bar

According to Irene, an evening of Karaoke with friends is how the locals like to socialise. We were keen to give it a go and great fun we had too. Well for me it was fun. Not sure the poor souls listening to my vocals will agree entirely! The decor in the Karaoke bar resembled a mash-up between a casino and a royal residence. With palatial ceilings, exuberant chandeliers and multicoloured lighting, there’s no wonder visitors don’t usually buy alcohol here. In fact, the padded strobe-lit walls and floor-to-ceiling mirrors could substitute the need for mind-bending drugs. When you visit this place, you leave on a complete high – no toxins required! (Overall Rating 85/100)

West Lake, Hangzhou

Our first venture out of the city took us 125 miles south-west of Shanghai to another stunning city, Hangzhou.

The Train journey to Hangzhou was an experience in itself. One thing China gets right, very right, is transporting people. Not only were the train stations on a colossal scale (possibly twice the size of a standard UK airport) but the trains themselves were longer and wider than anything here too. The user experience, from buying a ticket to the time a train departs, was done to precision – something we’re not used to in the UK! The train journey was smooth, clean and enjoyable, with fascinating views of miles upon miles of concrete multi-storey dwellings. The vast, tall, grey residential buildings we passed were just like emojis

A short walk from the train station is West Lake, a stunning expanse of water – typical to the landscape in South West China. We walked the entire 15km lake perimeter and it was a sheer pleasure, despite moisture in the air shedding a misty blanket over the distant temples. Viewing points are located around the lake and we took advantage of them to stop for a breather. I cast my eyes across the hazy grey water to the barely visible temple and spent a few minutes daydreaming. (Overall Rating 85/100)

The Bund

A river walk with two halves. The Bund, meaning ’embankment’, is the iconic walkway on the south side of the river. It’s an endless row of golden Georgian buildings facing the younger and undoubtedly more energetic Financial Quarter across the river. Our Friday evening walk across The Bund was atmospheric. The bright lights, lasers, flashing signs and advertising transforms Shanghai’s skyline into a 70s disco cum 80s arcade game. If the mere sight of water, lighting and buildings can make your hair stand-on-end, then you know you’re witnessing something special. By day, the structures that make up Shanghai’s skyline are impressive. By night, they are out of this world. My frequent jaw-dropping and gasps prevented any chance of decorum. The Bund was my ‘Shanghai Surprise’ and I cannot, in words, describe how wonderful it was to witness it by night. If you have the opportunity to walk across The Bund at night – you must! (Overall Rating 97/100)

M1NT Restaurant

The evening also involved cocktails in the swanky Bar Rouge and fine dining at M1NT restaurant a few streets south.

M1NT, overlooks the Financial Quarter and offers the most spectacular viewing platform from which to fine dine. From our window-located table on the 24th floor we were blessed with uninterrupted views of Shanghai’s vibrant evening skyline! M1NT itself was dark, plush and mouthwateringly good. We all ate fish dishes from the A La Carte Menu and each one was prepared and cooked to perfection. A Red Dragon mural spans the entire restaurant wall and even the corridors are lined with a ‘star-lit’ fish tank, providing a real sense of Chinese opulence. M1NT – you are ostentations and you have every right to be. I have memories from here that will last a lifetime. (Overall Rating 97/100)

Library District including Lost Heaven restaurant

The area of Shanghai Library is one I didn’t see as much of as I would have liked. Oh how frustrating that I may need to visit again!

The Library area oozes a shabby yet trendy vibe – the ideal place to settle in the city if you’re a cool geezer! Similar, I imagine, to that of Notting Hill or Camden. On a warm summer’s evening I suspect the locals congregate to eat Al Fresco. A perfect ritual for residents living in the quirky dwellings on illuminated tree-lined streets.

We ate at ‘Lost Heaven‘ a spectacular restaurant in the heart of this most desirable location offering authentic eastern Chinese cuisine. And heavenly it was!

The restaurant interior imitates a boathouse amid towering bamboos on the edge of a water town. The smell of authenticity grabs you from the minute you walk through the door. Just like a tardis, this place is small and unassuming on the outside opening into a vast expanse of wonder on the inside. It was as though we’d been transported to another world, well, eastern China anyway. The music was suitably therapeutic, the dark interior with romantic lighting perfectly set the scene and the vast greenery peering through the windows served as a calming sight.

The food at Lost Heaven really set the bar high. It was authentic, delicious and stunning to the eye – I couldn’t get enough of this place. We ordered several sharing dishes including fish and lotus root. The main ingredients, dressed in layers of chopped red chillies and bamboo leaves were succulent, tasty and cooked to perfection. Lost Heaven is a place I WILL return to. For now though, I’ve decided to rename it Di’s Heaven. (Overall Rating 96/100)

Shanghai Tower

The second tallest building in the world, Shanghai Tower, sits distinctly as master of the skyline and resembles a twisted body. It’s situated next to the Jin Mao Tower and the Shanghai World Financial Center – both having held the ‘tallest building’ title in years gone by.

The short walk to the main lift and journey to the top had been cleverly designed. We were immersed in captivating sights and sounds whilst being catapulted 118 floors high in a matter of seconds. But this was just the start. When we arrived at the viewing deck, we were greeted with huge blossom trees and imitation clouds spanning the entire area. Swanky glass pod chairs were positioned across the platform providing a comfortable and calming way to take in the views. We made good use of the pods and took a few moments to drift away among the clouds.

We were fortunate enough to reach the viewing deck during a 30 minute break in the foggy atmosphere, allowing a clear view of the city landscape to a good distance. On some days I imagine there’s a risk of limited viewing at Shanghai Tower. If the weather doesn’t want to play fair (literally!) there’s little point in visiting the viewing deck. However, when mother nature plays a kind hand, Shanghai Tower is a tranquil place to take in some breathtaking views. (Overall Rating 86/100)

Other observations:

Miscellaneous experiences or things that caught our attention.

Shopping malls

During our one-week stay in Shanghai we visited four malls. All of which were bright, big, bold and clean! The floor area of the malls are vast and equally so is their height. With between 6 to 10 floors of shopping extravaganza on offer, Chinese malls would be the perfect destination for British WAGs.

Hey Tea Shop

Hey Tea is an emerging tea brand that’s gripped China’s youth. A new shop opened in Shanghai during our visit and we were astonished to watch hundreds of teens queue for hours just to buy a cup of ‘Cha’. Irene asked the Hey Tea fans “What makes the tea so special it’s worth a 2 hour wait?”. Apparently, “Hey Tea just tastes SO good”. Of course, we decided to take their word for it, but walked away somewhat intrigued about the taste of Hey Tea!

Taxi drivers

Chinese taxi drivers are like fearless stuntmen and they petrify me. Our first exposure to ‘Chaxi Drivers’ came shortly after we arrived, when we jumped in a cab to take us 45 minutes across the city. It was one of the most teeth-clenching, gut-wrenching experiences of my life. I felt as though the driver was throwing a dice with my life on it. I’ve seen teenage boys racing each other in video games in a less reckless fashion than Chaxi Drivers do on a high-speed motorway. My advice is to avoid taxiing at all costs, the underground is fantastic as is venturing around the city ‘on foot’.

Hospital

Irene had been feeling under-the-weather since we arrived. On day three she took a turn for the worse and felt a trip to the hospital, for medication, was in order. We accompanied Irene, and whilst our only thoughts were to see her on the mend, the visit gave us a sneak peek into the workings of China’s emergency health provision.

So the first thing to note is that healthcare in China isn’t like the NHS. It works on a ‘pay-as-you-go’ basis and everyone has a unique health account. The second thing to note is that privacy at the hospital is…., well, isn’t! That’s right – whilst you’re pouring your heart out to the duty doctor about your ailments, the patients queuing right behind you are also privy to the story.

But it’s not just the initial consultation that’s open to all. Having blood taken ‘at the counter’ is like visiting the local post office to buy a stamp! Intravenous administering is done in a ‘communal’ setting. This communal approach to treatment did nothing for my faint heart. But it made me realise how resilient and accepting Chinese people are – they just get on with it.

My final hospital observation is the method by which patients receive their test results. Minutes after Irene’s bloods had been taken, by using her health card at an ‘ATM’ lookalike machine, she received a print out of her results. It showed pneumonia. So without a doctor or healthcare professional in sight, she wandered down to the pharmacy where the prescribed antibiotics were waiting for her. Now that’s what you call service!

Chinese food

I can’t conclude my Shanghai write-up without talking food. I just can’t. Whilst there are some weird and bonkers foods on offer – such as animal throats and claws, the majority of Chinese cuisine is utterly delightful. Chinese people love their food and they have every right to. In China, eating isn’t just about filling up – it’s about savouring every mouthful of tasty goodness.

During our stay, we ate at HaiDiLao, a popular ‘Hot Pot’ restaurant where customers cook their dishes at the table. It was slightly crazy but totally epic at the same time! Whilst my mouth had the most pleasurable assault of its life, my eyes were mesmerised by the delicious sight of fresh food waiting to be placed in the bubbling hotpot. If being a witch involves dropping unusual items into a fizzing, spicy cauldron – then I’m coming back with a broomstick!

Summary:

The silent nature of this city baffled me. As did the notion that a foreigner in an unfamiliar city would feel safer there than anywhere else in the world. But somehow, I did – Shanghai felt safer than home.

Visiting Shanghai changed me. I don’t know how or why, but it did. I found the place mesmerising and I know I will return. I want to discover more, the language, the culture and China as a whole.

Thank you Paul & Irene for opening my eyes, and of course, tastebuds. (Overall Holiday Rating 94/100) 

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Date of visit: 4 April 2017 to 11 April 2017

Intro

Our holiday to Dubai was truly spectacular and not just because it involved a special birthday celebration!

We were greeted with warm Arabian sunshine on arrival, and it stayed for the entire duration. The climate in the UAE is one of its many appeals, and guaranteed almost all year round. Dubai is simply stunning. It’s massively bling, yet overwhelmingly true to its origins. I sensed the Sheikh’s vision everywhere I looked. In creating Dubai he set out to impress, and impress he did!

This mega city is bigger than I ever imagined. In fact, it could be divided into five smaller cities: ‘The Palm‘, ‘The Marina‘, ‘Al Arab/nearby souks‘, ‘Downtown Dubai‘ and ‘Dubai Creek‘ all distinct areas in their own right. We managed to visit four of the five in our short one-week stay – plus a trip out to the desert.

Observations:

Four things struck me about Dubai – cleanliness, infrastructure, expansion and culture. You can read more about these below.

1 – Cleanliness

Firstly, Dubai is an extremely clean place. The metro stations and trains are like newly built museums with shiny floors and crystal clear glass. The streets are ‘dirt-free’ and the malls glisten, notwithstanding the obsessive use of light bulbs!. The entire place felt very new. But then, it is new. Twenty five years ago the Dubai we know today didn’t exist.

2 – Infrastructure

The second thing that struck me about Dubai is that it desperately lacks an eco transport infrastructure. People should be able to move around the city in a more eco-efficient way. Perhaps the extreme summer temperatures restrict outdoor activity, so maybe pedestrian walkways or cycle lanes will always be a non-starter. But for us, being unable to take to the pavement to discover Dubai by foot was a huge disappointment. The only way to get anywhere is by taxi, even for very short-distance trips.

3 – Expansion

Dubai is still growing, at an alarming rate too. We saw cranes, hoarding, concrete, steel and workmen by the thousand. Will the city ever be finished? Will it continue to expand, grow and evolve into an ultra city? The proudly placed ‘EMAAR’ signage is woven into the city’s skyline. It’s difficult to look up without seeing the world’s largest construction brand boldly fixed to the top of buildings. If I’d been responsible for Dubai’s concrete jungle, I’d demand my name embedding in the skyline too! With more plans for regeneration in the pipeline, the face of Dubai is set to continue changing. A new Marina and more iconic landmarks are already under construction.

4 – Culture

One thing that UAE do well is take care of their own. So tale has it, Emirati folk are born to a life of privilege. They can expect large houses and grounds, salaries, weddings and honeymoons from the government – subject to a few minor T&Cs of course.

But I do have to mention a negative here and that’s the country’s general reluctance to accept equality. LGBT communities aren’t welcome in Dubai and that goes against what I stand for. My daughter and her girlfriend had to be very careful and sadly this ruined parts of our holiday. I also found the ‘women only’ section of the train somewhat awkward.

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Ratings of our stay:

I’ve rated aspects of our stay and places we visited below:

Accommodation: Beach Apartments, Palm Jumeriah

Overall Complex

As the apartments form part of the Fairmont Hotel Complex we were able to make full use of the site’s 5-star facilities. For those wanting a luxury getaway for a fraction of the cost, the Beach Apartments present an ideal way to do it. The pool, pool areas, access to the beach, reception lounge, gym and other facilities were all maintained to an excellent standard. The booking site photographs didn’t do them justice.

Location – immediate vicinity

Good quality supermarkets and decent restaurants are located on the opposite side of the road in the Golden Mile Galleria. The Galleria is close to a small, friendly, expat community and we spent most evenings in the eateries there.

Cleanliness

The apartments could be (and probably were) categorised as luxurious. However, we found them a little on the tired side and in much need of a deep clean! Both of the apartments we stayed in had large balconies. One, facing south, overlooking the sea and Dubai Marina, the other, facing north, spanning Downtown Dubai and Burj Al Arab.

Location – accessibility

Getting anywhere from Palm Jumeirah is difficult and requires transport. We had to order taxis to take us to destinations that were less than a 30 min walk away. The Marina and Atlantis Hotel Waterpark were just a stone’s throw from our apartments, but with no pedestrian walkways on or off the palm, we had to use taxis to get there. (Overall Rating 87/100)

Desert Excursion

The desert adventure was the highlight of our holiday. The description in the online itinerary was extremely accurate. Right down to the food menu served in the Bedouin Camp.

Our tour guide, Tony, was an absolute star and I’m convinced it was his friendly and informative input that made the day as special as it was. Nothing was too much trouble and he went out of his way at every opportunity to add value wherever he could. For example, spotting a Sandfish in the desert and stopping the vehicle en route to show us the cute little creature was a perfect touch – thank you Tony! Esme (who hosted the falconry display) was also great. In fact, all the staff we came into contact with were extremely pleasant. We witnessed jolly banter among the tour guides too, creating a welcoming ‘family’ atmosphere that was warming be part of.

The day was hot (as expected), the sand was soft and the beautiful golden landscape went untouched for miles. Tony shared facts about the true Emirati culture (past and present) right into the night. It was fascinating. He was also on-hand to answer the abundance of questions we threw at him. It was such an enjoyable experience.

I’d highly recommend this trip to anyone looking to visit the desert in a fun, engaging and informative way. (Overall Rating 96/100)

Burj Khalifa

Our £30 per person visit to floors 124 and 125 of what is currently the world’s tallest building was enjoyable. But it certainly wasn’t the jaw-dropping, mind-blowing, out-of-this world experience it could, in fact, should have been!

The lack of wow-factor is a missed opportunity in my opinion because the fountains, on the building’s doorstep, are spectacular. The Burj’s exterior is also quite amazing and watching it glisten in the different throes of light was truly beautiful. Both of which are free to do!

The week prior to visiting Burj Khalifa we went to the viewing deck of Shanghai Tower (the second tallest building in the world at time of writing) and this was a far better experience. The build-up in the lift was more exciting and the viewing deck was also less crowded, offering a more peaceful space to absorb the breathtaking views.

Sadly, I wouldn’t revisit Burj’s viewing deck again, even if it was free. It doesn’t have the pizzaz it deserves. I hope the management team invest in the viewing area to create truly memorable experiences for its visitors. (Overall Rating 84/100)

Aquaventure Water Park

Visiting the Aquaventure Water Park was the biggest let down of our holiday. Comparing any water park to Florida’s offering is a mean feat, but when Centre Parcs’ ‘swimming pool in a greenhouse’ ranks higher, then something’s amiss!

So the lazy river was longer than most I’ve been to and the beach area was nice. But a water park should be more about excitement than relaxation! – and that’s what Aquaventure lacked for me.

The refill con

Not only was it quite pricey to visit, but we were conned into buying ‘refill’ drink containers for the kids, costing around £25 for three. The advertisement states an unlimited amount of free soft drinks, so in spending £25, I appeased myself that by the end of the day, it would serve as a good investment. Disney operate a ‘refill’ drinks arrangement and having taken advantage of it in the past, I decided to try it here. However, at Aquaventure only the first drink is free. I’m stunned they get away with advertising ‘free refill’ when what they actually mean is ‘free first fill’. The word ‘refill’ is any fill after the first! The cost to refill was around £5 each, so we ended up spending an eye-watering amount on soft drinks and came away with three unwanted children’s drink containers into the bargain!

Exiting the park

Although we bought online tickets, we still had to queue at the busy entrance area when we arrived, with no aircon, for about 45 minutes. A frustrating wait which ironically paled into insignificance compared to the fiasco queuing system to leave the park. We had to wait in a taxi queue for nearly 2 hours to leave the complex. YES 2 hours! This put a literal dampener on our water-based outing. We weren’t alone either. All park visitors, still wet from the day’s activities, were subject to the same dreadfully long queue to leave. We witnessed unprecedented chaos in dispersing large crowds from a busy park. Not only is Aquaventure’s approach to H&S an accident waiting to happen, but it showcased the most disorganised and dangerous site and crowd management I’ve ever seen.  People were fighting to get in taxis and others paying £100s for unsolicited taxis – just to get away!

Overrated, expensive, manipulative and extremely poorly managed. (Overall Rating 70/100)

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Boat to Dubai Creek: Gold Souk and Dubai Fort

Dubai Fort

Our trip to Dubai Fort (museum) was a complete fluke and only came about after stumbling upon a photo of the fort by accident. The fort is seldom promoted which is a shame as we found it to be an utter gem in the heart of the old city. The fort boasts an underground museum which tastefully presents a selection of artefacts that tell the traditional Emirati story. How they lived, what they ate, how they built and what contributed to their success. The best history lesson I’ve ever had!

Gold Souk

The gold souks were a bit less impressive, but the smells and sounds of the old market satisfied my urge to discover the ‘real’ Dubai so still worth a visit. The stallholders chanting the same lines for hours on end became a bit tedious. I’m not looking for a Rolex watch, Gucci bracelet or Louis Vuitton bag – so please stop asking!

Boat trip

The boat trip to Dubai’s Old town was excellent too. We left the extravagance of Dubai Marina and within thirty minutes we were skirting past the beautiful Burj Al Arab. It was breathtaking to see the world’s most nautical looking hotel from the sea. Many selfies had! (Overall Rating 84/100)

Other Observations:

Miscellaneous experiences or things that caught our attention.

Food & drink

The lack of readily available alcohol took some getting used to. Although we visited Dubai with an open mind and respect for the Arabian culture, I just assumed a handful of restaurants would offer wine – but we didn’t find any. The cravings soon dissipated with a reminder of how I pride myself on adopting local customs. Instead, shisha pipes and camel milk made for interesting alternatives to my familiar crushed grapes! I also noticed a distinct lack of fish and veggie foods on the menus. I can only assume that either the Arabians prefer meat dishes, or the area has been heavily influenced by the American palette. On the whole, food in Dubai is pricey. But as one of the most popular tourist hubs this century, that’s hardly surprising. Anyone visiting would be naïve to expect otherwise.

Summary:

The UK could take a few lessons from this place. Developing something big and innovative without decades of red-tape sounds like a good starting point. The city has transformed into one of the most iconic places in the world and it deserves the accolade and admiration it gets.

It proved to be a good destination to holiday with family. I hope to return to Dubai and I’ve no doubt it will look different each and every time I do. (Overall Holiday Rating 92/100)

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Date of visit: 11 April 2017 to 18 April 2017

Intro

Ever since I watched Scandimania by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, I’ve been hankering to visit one (or all) of the Scandinavian countries. Why wouldn’t I – they’re said to be home to the happiest people on earth. It’s where the term Hygge, meaning feeling of contentment and wellbeing, originates. As luck would have it, Craig’s brother lives just outside Aarhus in Denmark, so when he invited us over, we jumped at the chance.

In my mind, Denmark has always been about beer, bacon, pastries and Lego – not exactly the winning formula you’d expect for health, happiness and wellbeing. But I found those stereotypes to be dated and not remotely reflective of Denmark today.

Observations:

Two key things stood out for me in Aarhus. Firstly, it’s family orientated focus, but the green and clean way of living also caught my attention:

1 – Family orientated

Denmark struck me as having a particularly strong focus on the family unit. The stunning greenery that lines the footpaths to school stood out in a good way. As did the conveniently positioned play parks which were interspersed along the route.

Mealtimes are family times for Danes and subtle hints of ‘kids are welcome here’ emanate from buildings, restaurants and communal spaces.

2 – Green and clean

I found Denmark to be a clean and green city. I think their environmentally friendly ethos is more advanced than we have in the UK. The streets were noticeably tidy and litter-free, and cycle routes and bus lanes were in abundance.

What also impressed me is the sense of communal action to share and preserve. Hot water is pumped from a central supply to every residence in the suburb to reduce waste!

In Hjortshøj, an area just outside Aarhus lies a sustainable village called Andelssamfundet. Residents live holistically with ecological, economical and social aspects of life as focus. It’s the collective movements just like this that position Denmark as leading the way on environmental developments.

Ratings of our stay:

I’ve rated aspects of our stay and places we visited below.

Dokk1 

Dokk1 was built in 2015 and is more than just a library. The modern, angular, heptagonal-roofed structure also houses government facilities, cafés, theatre, halls, study areas and playgrounds. It overlooks the industrial waterfront which is undergoing significant renovation.

The recreational features of the building create a perfect meeting point for locals and tourists alike. Whether it’s to chill out in the seating area, study in the library, play in the playgrounds or game on the arcade machines – there’s fun to be had by adults, kids, and big kids too!

We spent a few pleasant hours wandering around and soaking up Dokk1. The library was dark and plush with colourful books offering splashes of vibrance. The underground carpark was a real showstopper too. We drove into a metal ‘cage’ which then automatically transported the car down to the lower levels of the building for safe-keeping until our return – swift, convenient and a technological feat. (Overall rating 90/100)

ARoS Aarhus Art Museum

ARoS Art Museum is one of the largest museums in Europe. Its striking multicoloured rooftop halo gives the building a unique look and style. It also provides a rainbow-coloured circular walkway with 360 degree panoramic views of Aarhus.

The building exterior is a dark maroon square, yet inside it’s light, airy and contemporary with white spiralling walkways right to the top. I’ll eat my hat if the design of this place wasn’t inspired by the Guggenheim museum!

Exhibitions and art installations are located across all floors and Mapplethorpe was a stand out favourite for us. The piece-de-resistance though was the ‘Rainbow Panorama’, our walk around the sky-high viewing platform was psychedelic and invigorating! (Overall rating 92/100)

City streets

The city architecture reminded me of that in eastern Europe. With red industrial brickwork, tall thin dwellings, copper-green rooftops and countless spires, we could have been anywhere in the east of our continent. The curved river walkway offers a romantic and cosy setting by night. Lights illuminate the water and tall curved buildings and homely bars add real character.

We wandered by some very cool buildings during our four hour daytime stroll. The brutal, concrete city hall and architecturally stunning Dokk1 signify a quirky city that’s still very much in the making. I’m looking forward to see a finished waterfront with the completed new rail infrastructure and redeveloped customs house all in place. (Overall rating 90/100)

Street-food markets

We visited two street-food markets. The first was an open air market located outside a public services building. Given the big foodies we are, we couldn’t resist the opportunity to nosey around all the stalls, if only to inhale the delightful spicy aromas wafting past us.

The second street-food experience was to a large indoor market which offered an impressive and vast array of mouth-watering fodder. Situated in an old bus garage, not far from the old station, lies Aarhus’s bustling street-food market. The hollow, industrial structure reminded me of an aircraft hangar – it was huge. The range of food and buzzing atmosphere makes this place an uplifting and delicious eating house. The hanging rows of lightbulbs, seductive aromas permeating the vast space or the chanting sound of diners all added to our experience and we loved our visit here. (Overall rating 91/100)

A Hereford Beefstouw

During our stay we celebrated Paul’s ‘special’ birthday at a fine restaurant in the heart of Aarhus – A Hereford Beefstouw.

This charming eatery has food quality right at the top of its agenda and boy it showed. Eight of us ‘smorged’ over a candlelit table to a predominantly meat-based menu. Whilst I didn’t try every dish on the table, the impeccable quality of food and drink was indisputable. (Overall rating 95/100)

Other observations:

Miscellaneous experiences or things that caught our attention.

Aarhus Airport

Aarhus Airport is tiny. That said, I guess it’s as big as it needs to be. For us it made a pleasant change to land and take off from something as small as a lego model! The single runway was compact, the arrivals area is tiny and the de-commercialised building was a breath of fresh air. Set in a green-built area, Aarhus Airport felt original.

Summary:

Aarhus is trendy!

It has a progressive culture, modern outlook and a cool vibe. It isn’t lavish, bling or ostentatious – instead it’s basic, appreciative and homes in on what really matters.

I’d say it’s affluent without the need to show it – and I like that.

If my trip to Denmark did one thing, it shed a glimmer of light on why the people of Denmark might be ranked as the happiest in the world.

Thanks to Paul and Irene for hosting us. (Overall Holiday Rating 92/100)

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Date of visit: 16 September 2016 to 19 September 2016, and, 16 March 2018 to 18 March 2018

Intro

The Maldives, a formation of 1,200 unique islands, was born 60 million years ago following a volcanic eruption in the Indian Ocean. It had been on my peripheral places-to-visit radar for a couple of decades, but I’d never found myself in the right set of circumstances to go. My partner, on the other hand, had visited the Maldives six years earlier and it was from hearing about his fond recollections that I started searching for an island for us to visit together.

After a few days’ holiday-hunting, our first trip to this paradisal drop in the Indian Ocean was booked. We decided on Helengeli, a stunning island in the Northern Atoll, mainly because it has a coral reef.

Observations:

Four things about the Maldives stood out for me. Daily routines, the night sky, the world beneath the water and sympathetic construction. You can read more about these below.

1 – Daily routines

The similarity of one day to the next became apparent not long after arriving. For anyone who thrives on having daily routines you can set your watch to, this part of the world is perfect. Largely due to its close proximity to the equator, sunrises and sunsets are approximately 12 hours apart and happen at almost the same time of day, all year round. The temperature is also impressively consistent, ranging from just 28 to 30 degrees day and night at any time of year.

But it’s not just the cosmological happenings that bring such regularity. Having very little to do each day also takes some getting used to. Once you’re on the island, that’s it. Life without chaos, demands and pressure brings an obvious void. So to fill that gap it’s easy to get caught up in the little things like clock-watching, menu-scanning and noticing the natural routines of the island.

On our fourth day we decided to wake early to watch a sunrise. We weren’t the only guests opting for an early start. In dribs and drabs, other residents were up and about, also wanting to watch the new day emerge. An incredibly sweet couple, probably in their mid-sixties, were performing a yoga routine by the sea. The sun rose at 6:10am and they continued for a further 30 minutes. Such an impressive way to see in the day.

2 – The night sky

Once the sun sets at around 6pm each day, the brightness of day transforms rapidly into the darkness of night. With zero light pollution in this part of the world, the familiar bright hue that illuminates Europe’s night sky is nowhere to be seen. Instead, jet-black skies make up the outer atmosphere and complete darkness takes over. The clarity of the Milky Way makes it seem unfamiliar.

We took advantage of the dark skies and our 3° north location by taking some long-exposure photographs of the stars and planets above. We also spent many-an-evening lying outdoors on bean-bags under the jewelled ceiling, fixated by the galaxies above our eyes.

3 – The world beneath the water

The house reef (coral surrounding the island) was one of the features that attracted us to Helengeli. But nothing prepared us for the magnificence this coral-life underwater had to offer. It was breathtaking – literally and metaphorically!

As a self-confessed wannabe mermaid it was a given that much of my time would be spent submerged in the Indian Ocean. We bought Ninja snorkel masks especially for this trip and were mightily impressed with the enhanced snorkelling experience they provided. Every day we found ourselves immersed among the sea life, lapping up the multi-tonal throes of blue across the ocean floor for hours at a time.

The variety of fish and other aquatic life across the reef were vast. From turtles and sharks, to nemos and dorys, then everything in between. Be it the neon colour of the beautiful finned creatures, the size of the sharks that swim right by you, or the synchronised schools of fish dancing as they tootle on by – what lies beneath is truly another world.

4 – Sympathetic construction

My final observation is one of appreciation also. What seems to define construction on Maldivian Islands is a desire to retain as much nature as possible. As such, trees and natural wildlife habitats continue to dominate the land, leaving minimal opportunity for destruction and development. Structures such as villas, restaurants and jetties are predominantly built of wood and interspersed subtly among the trees. I hope the Maldivian government retain this tight building control and don’t succumb to financial offers from wealthy tycoon developers. The region’s unique beauty must be preserved.

Ratings of our stay:

I’ve rated aspects of our stay and things we did below.

Resort: Helengeli Island

Helengeli island resort is fronted by ‘OBLU’, a vibrant brand created by Maldivian resort giants, ‘Atmosphere’. The brand brings a colourful, lively and modern façade to this stunning island.

The island comprises 116 villas, two restaurants, a boathouse, ELENA spa, PADI water-sports centre and small gift shop.

The north side of the island is cordoned off and allocated to Helengeli’s staff who likely spend their out-of-work hours residing there. We weren’t able to enter this part of the island, though I imagine it’s tightly-packed and lacks the luxuries paying guests are privy to.

The south side is more communal and hosts the boathouse reception, spa and diving centre. The two eateries, All Spice and Just Grill, are positioned centrally – just a stone’s throw from where our villa was located.

To promote the restaurant and on-site entertainment, OBLU prepare a weekly itinerary. Themed foods dominate the menu and a low-key singer fills the bar area with complementary background music. The itinerary also includes activities such as boat excursions which we took advantage of. You can read more about these below.

The watersports centre is a perfect fit for the island, ideal for those wanting to make the most of the water-world. The PADI-accredited centre offers scuba, snorkelling and much more. We didn’t partake but would have considered scuba if we’d been staying longer.

Finally, I should mention the exceptional service we received throughout our stay at OBLU. It was outstanding. From Maitre d’ right through to the housemaid, who came at least twice a day and created masterpieces with our towels. All their efforts were second-to-none and hugely appreciated. (Overall Rating 95/100)

Speedboat to the Island

We were helped onto the speedboat by a trio of friendly resort personnel who were clearly of the mindset that creating a good first impression leaves a lasting one. As such, we were well looked after during our one-hour boat ride to the Island. Chilled hand-towels, bottles of iced water and mini Snickers bars were handed out in abundance. Not to mention the onboard, comedic entertainment by the youthful crew. The notion of what our next ten days might look like, started to seep in.

Arrival

As our boat docked-in to Helengeli’s boathouse, we were escorted to reception by even more attentive staff for a chilled fruit juice welcome drink. Once the check-in process was complete, another ever-helpful guide walked us along the sandy path to our villa. I kicked my trainers off upon leaving reception and my feet didn’t see full-covered footwear again until we left.

First exploration

Like intrepid explorers, on day one we were aching to set foot into the wilderness and explore this delightful island. Starting from our villa, positioned half-way across the island, we walked left towards the north side and then back on ourselves towards the south. It took us all of ten minutes to walk the full stretch!. We settled in the knowledge that whatever happens on Helengeli island, getting lost wouldn’t be one of them. With such a tiny piece of land at our feet we also contemplated the likelihood of not having enough to do or feeling claustrophobic. Thankfully these thoughts didn’t occur again for the rest of our stay.

Maintaining the island was a key focus for the Helengeli team. On our short walk we spotted the maintenance team in full flow. One was raking the sand and the other climbed a palm tree, barefoot, to chop down a dead leaf.

Accommodation

We paid a little extra for our accommodation and opted for a deluxe beach villa facing the north-western aspect. This was to ensure we had the perfect spot for watching the sunsets.

Exactly as illustrated in the travel brochure, our villa had the optimal balance of luxury vs simplicity. Whilst respecting its tropical surroundings, the villa retained a natural feel with just splashes of modern day luxuries and top-quality fittings throughout.

The open air bathroom was even more delightful than we imagined. With echoing sounds from the tropical birds in the trees above and an open-air shower, lined with luscious plants – it was the ultimate place to unwind and cleanse.

On the doorstep was our private beach. It wasn’t completely private as other residents are able to walk along the coast, but the few metres from our patio doors to the water edge felt very private indeed.

Our villa, 205, was the best on the island in my opinion, simply because of its location. (Overall Rating 94/100)

Island Restaurants

Unlimited food and drink at the ‘All Spice’ restaurant is part of the all-inclusive package and it was delicious, morning, noon and night. Unlike most all-inclusive buffets, the food quality and variety here was impeccable. Each buffet station boasted fresh, tasty ingredients which were laid out like works of art. On the Maldivian themed evening I sampled a local specialty, breadfruit curry. It was utterly delightful and I’ve tried to locate this unique ingredient since returning home, without success unfortunately.

Cooked breakfasts were prepared by chef-manned station points as-you-wait. Other breakfast options included fresh fruits as well as traditional cereals and cold, continental foods. We ate on the veranda every morning, watching the sharks and other sea creatures swim by.

Although the All Spice restaurant was spectacular, one evening we decided to eat in Just Grill – the island’s second restaurant which is not part of the all-inclusive deal. Situated on a secluded section of the beach, our intimate dining table was surrounded by a candles laid out in a heart shape. We dined beneath the stars, with sand under our feet. I ate a delicious, succulent lobster dish which was prepared and cooked to perfection. The meal cost around £150, so very reasonably priced for an exclusive dining experience. (Overall Rating 95/100)

On-site Spa

We spent our fifth day taking advantage of the on-site Spa. A hidden island retreat offering even more extravagance to our tropical getaway.

We were greeted with a warm welcome, followed by an even warmer surprise – in the form of ginger tea served in traditional teapots. In the zen-inspired outdoors area, we sipped our spicy tea whilst relaxing amid running water streams and greenery.

We both opted for a full back massage and felt pampered and replenished after our visit. (Overall Rating 92/100)

Sunset fishing trip

On day six we took advantage of the Sunset fishing trip. Facilitated by the same trio that collected us from Male, we knew we could count on this merry bunch to add life to the trip.

We set sail on a classic, old-school fishing boat about 30 minutes before sunset. The crew retrieved boxes of rotting meat from the hold and we placed them on the end of our fishing lines. Although a perfect delicacy for unwitting little fishies, the bait created an extremely unpleasant stench for us!

I decided not to partake in the ‘fishing’ element of the trip. Craig on the other hand, relished in the idea and not long after his line was cast into the ocean he felt a tugging sensation. Alas, it wasn’t a fish. In fact his efforts and patience didn’t pay off and much to his disappointment, he came home without a catch! It was a pleasant and different way to watch the sunset. (Overall Rating 87/100)

Boat trip to Gaarfaru

Our seventh day took us 11 km north to another Maldivian island, Gaarfaru.

Our trip to this nearby residential island offered the chance to see local Maldivian folk going about their daily business. Just a 45 min boat-ride from Helengeli, this intriguing island was full of culture. Home to 1,400 residents and with its own school, police station, civic buildings, shops, homes and even a boat repair yard, this island is entirely self-sufficient. We saw children running through the narrow streets, amazed by us and our fascination with them. It was an insightful trip and one of the highlights of our stay. (Overall Rating 92/100)

Wine-sampling evening

The management team invited us to attend an exclusive dinner one evening alongside a handful of other guests, courtesy of a top wine merchant. In a bid to secure a wine contract at Helengeli, the Sommelier-cum-Sales Director opened the event with a flamboyant introduction about the wine company he was representing. The Chilean producer, big in south America, was on a mission to penetrate the East-Asian market. We ate a four-course meal in the company of a great bunch of fellow Europeans, paired with some spectacular wines accompanying each dish. It was an enlightening experience and good fun. (Overall Rating 93/100)

Other Observations:

Miscellaneous experiences or things that caught our attention.

Malé Airport

On arriving at Malé International Airport, two flights and 16 hours after leaving the UK, we were greeted with a tropical welcome. Unlike modern airports, Malé reminded me of a scene from a 60s James Bond movie. With ceiling fans offering the best in air ventilation and a propped-up lean-to as the building’s main entry and exit point, you could be forgiven for thinking you’d entered a different era. A mere stride out of the airport and we were right on the ocean-front.

Summary:

I’m not sure my blog portrays the extent of beauty or idyll we witnessed in the Maldives. Probably because it’s the sheer simplicity of the natural environment that makes it so perfect. Robinson Crusoe may have been lonely, but in all other aspects, residing on an a paradise island has to be the best way to live.

Although most days were very similar, in terms of routine and location, the sense of feeling special never wavered at all. It’s as though we were suspended in time, albeit for just ten days, which made it priceless.

Our time on Helengeli island was unforgettable. Maldives – we will be back! (Overall Holiday Rating 95/100)

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Date of visit: 2 August 2016 to 12 August 2016